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Ok I have a ride height question: what is the adjustment range? My car is a 4 season car so I want the ability to keep it near factory ride height for winter. Also are the spring rates much stiffer than stock? Much stiffer springs would also hurt the winter handling.
 

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Anybody heard from Joe? I figured he might be on vacation over the holiday, but now it's time to get back to the grind ... i.e. selling us some stuff! :)
 

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Joe, any concerns with running these year-round in a region that can see temperatures around zero F for a couple of months? In the old days they used to talk about "all weather fluid" in shocks. Not sure if that still applies.
 

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Another question: are you using the max camber adjustment? I understand the BCs have a slotted hole at the strut attachment for camber adjustment. Just wondering what the max is. I will only add 1.5° same as you since my car is a daily driver.
 

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With the BCs I am hoping to give it a little evil-looking rake, so probably drop the front an inch or a little more, give it some street friendly camber, and drop the rear not as much.
 

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My '12 Focus has the same sort of mass dampener on the front struts. Almost seems like standard procedure for Ford now.
 

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Likely not me LOL. I have to wait till the weather is miata friendly so I can have the ST off the road for more than a weekend.
 

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Thanks mosh. I was going to watch that install video posted by [email protected] also. Encouraging to know it's that easy. I also want to work up some better weather/grit proofing for these units ... or am I just being anal?? Seems to me that driving a setup like this with snow and road salt is just asking for problems when you go to adjust things. Hate for these pretty things to get all crusty.

Since there's no adjustment in the rear, I should be able to get it aligned in my driveway pretty easily with old school strings and tape measures :) I will probably do that anyway and then maybe have the shop confirm my settings.
 

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Any guess what height they are set at out of the box? I mean are they set at all or do you need to adjust from scratch no matter what?
 

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Payday is Friday... How is the downpipe coming along?
^^^ This. I am eagerly awaiting the Stage 2 system in stainless (only because I live with road salt 4 months out of the year). I got upgrade money burning holes in my pockets! Autox season soon ...
 

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Not to answer for Joe ... but the custom spec we got from 2J has 6k front springs and 4k rear. I also ordered a spare set of 5k rears in case the car needs more rotation.
 

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Busy Tuesday. Took the day off to get cars out of storage. Was such a nice day that I took off the snows and put on the BC coilovers, RokBlox flaps, and Sparcos with ZIIs. My back will be killing me tomorrow!
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Alloy wheel Motor vehicle
 

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As I have heard from Joe's original post, it was silly easy. The hardest part was getting the front strut top nuts off as there is one really up under the cowl on each side and the brake filler is in the way (I permanently relocated it so I can easily adjust the struts). You need a couple of zip ties to reattach the ABS wire to the new strut. I fought to get the old anchor off only to realize it wasn't needed for the new strut. I ran an M8 x 1.25 tap through the bracket that hold the front brake line because the nuts were powder coated and the bolt was going in real tight. I didn't like the feel of it. On the rear I just removed the felt fender liners permanently. I couldn't see the shock top bolts with that in the way and it just seems like a recipe for corrosion having the liners in there. In fact I had the interior panels loose before I realized you don't have to do anything inside the car LOL. Make sure you have jack stands and/or two jacks. You really need to lift the whole front and then the whole rear because of the sway bar and twist beam. Doing one corner at a time is no good. Very easy install. Now for alignment!
 
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