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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for letting me know i have more pics coming
I had a surprise photoshoot sprung on me today so I was kinda rushed but I have been wanting to write this for months, been stuck doing feature content and no how to stuff. Believe it or not that silly hole helps ton too
 

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nicely put together, and spot-on in terms of everything I have heard/read from credible sources. My only question is the part of cutting the hole in in the upper radiator shroud for the intake. The air in that area is high pressure and ahead of the radiator. That makes it close to ambient temp and the high pressure will seek the low pressure of the air box. The radiator is seen as a restriction as far as air flow is concerned, so the opening for the intake is a good spot for it to go. No doubt opening it up will help that, but the air isn't stagnant or hot between the grille and radiator. After the radiator, the air is indeed hot since it just took heat away from the radiator. A number of race cars use the sealed area in front of the radiator to duct air to the intake or brakes (depending on the car), so that area is a good spot to pull air from.

I wish I had better data from wrapping the induction tubes, cold charge tube, and part of the airbox with gold foil. I started that before I got my Accessport and I also did it over time in the fall as ambient temps were dropping. The delta between charge temp and ambient did drop with everything wrapped, but I really needed a more controlled test of before and after in order to prove it worked. The cost of the gold foil wasn't bad and it just took time to get everything wrapped. It is another modification that doesn't produce power, but helps keep the charge temp lower and reduce heat soak.

Another low cost modification that I have done, but don't have any real data to back it up, was to seal off the sides of the intercooler to the bumper. Eventually I want to remove the bumper cover and seal everything between the intercooler and bumper. I took scrap strips of aluminum and double sided tape to create a barrier between the sides of the intercooler and the bumper cover. I also took heavy duty duct tape and sealed the plastic trim below the intercooler. Anything to help make sure all the available air goes thru the intercooler helps, either stock or aftermarket. I sealed up the radiator on my Mustang so well that the engine would run too cold on the street and I needed to undo a bunch of the shields.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
nicely put together, and spot-on in terms of everything I have heard/read from credible sources. My only question is the part of cutting the hole in in the upper radiator shroud for the intake. The air in that area is high pressure and ahead of the radiator. That makes it close to ambient temp and the high pressure will seek the low pressure of the air box. The radiator is seen as a restriction as far as air flow is concerned, so the opening for the intake is a good spot for it to go. No doubt opening it up will help that, but the air isn't stagnant or hot between the grille and radiator. After the radiator, the air is indeed hot since it just took heat away from the radiator. A number of race cars use the sealed area in front of the radiator to duct air to the intake or brakes (depending on the car), so that area is a good spot to pull air from.

I wish I had better data from wrapping the induction tubes, cold charge tube, and part of the airbox with gold foil. I started that before I got my Accessport and I also did it over time in the fall as ambient temps were dropping. The delta between charge temp and ambient did drop with everything wrapped, but I really needed a more controlled test of before and after in order to prove it worked. The cost of the gold foil wasn't bad and it just took time to get everything wrapped. It is another modification that doesn't produce power, but helps keep the charge temp lower and reduce heat soak.

Another low cost modification that I have done, but don't have any real data to back it up, was to seal off the sides of the intercooler to the bumper. Eventually I want to remove the bumper cover and seal everything between the intercooler and bumper. I took scrap strips of aluminum and double sided tape to create a barrier between the sides of the intercooler and the bumper cover. I also took heavy duty duct tape and sealed the plastic trim below the intercooler. Anything to help make sure all the available air goes thru the intercooler helps, either stock or aftermarket. I sealed up the radiator on my Mustang so well that the engine would run too cold on the street and I needed to undo a bunch of the shields.
I dunno, the main reason I cut the hole in the first place was because I was frustrated by the car not dropping temperature fast enough once it got moving. It seems to help a lot in my neck of the woods, at least. I would have to agree with your assessment of "shrouding" the FMIC is probably also effective though there's no need with the COBB one since it's damn near flush with the fascia. the main thing i wanted was for intake temps to drop back down to near ambient as quickly as possible once the car's moving and freeway speed data I see seems to support it but I'm really lazy with datalogging if I'm honest because it's too hard to go out and get good data without worrying about going to jail over getting the data.

more pics coming later of some of the things I discuss, but I had to get the post up yesterday to test whether or not the blog was working right as well, heh.

also, apologies to Razor I have since added a note on there thanking Razor for the data
 

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I think the hole in the shroud for the intake surely isn't a bad idea. I will probably go down that route as well. Oh, good tip on the Focus ST intercooler as there seems to be nothing published online about attempting that modification.

Yep, getting good data on the street isn't easy. It doesn't take long with 3rd gear to get in trouble. I didn't bother trying to record any data this winter since most of the time there was too much ice on the road to even bother getting into boost. When the roads were clear and dry, the power overcomes the winter tires enough that I get the TC light on in 4th gear. One thing is for sure, when temps are in the single digits and you find dry roads, the car screams! Seeing air charge temps around 10'F weren't uncommon last month.
 

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There were some folks in the ATL St user group that tried the FoST ic update and yes it works but I think they needed to trim the FiST to fit as the focus one may have been a bit narrow.. Not a problem for a good DIY'r
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know it WORKS; I did it. It's just a hell of a lot of trimming and we've been dealing with lots of boost leak issues; hence more trouble than it's worth and you needed to plug the map sensor hole in the FMIC... it's a LOT of trimming. While not a problem for someone that is VERY DIY friendly, I don't want the average person thinking it's "easy" because that would be very misleading. so unless you've got a free one, and are extremely DIY friendly and personally a handy installer, the focus st FMIC retrofit is not going to be easily doable

I have to really beat the point home on some things as even after I put a ton of red text on the 'mishimoto j-line listing explaining that hey, you're gonna have to do some work and it's not a good idea if you're having a shop install it for you' I then had to go back again and add MORE red text and make it bigger and clearer to beat that dead horse into the ground
 
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