[Golfguy11800]

Hey guys,

I was doing a search for an endurance brake application, but it seemed all the information was scattered. I'll update this main post here to keep information throughout this thread relevant.

The problem:

My Fiesta ST just ticked 3,200 miles and the stock brakes are already shot. I was getting severe rotor vibration when braking from any high speed. I think they are warped. The car is borderline scary to drive.

I took the car to the dealer to see what was up (maybe it was brake malfunction or a bad factory part) and they tell me my front rotors, pads, and tires are cooked. I still think I have another 1,500 miles out of the tires but that is besides the point. Note that I only drive the car with the traction fully off as to best prevent the computers from applying brakes during turns and other situations when I am not on the brakes themselves. I know that Ford Racing makes an ABS control module override.

I come from German racing cars and am not familiar with US/ Ford aftermarket endurance brake products. The companies that I normally use for my Porsche endurance brakes don't make products for my Fiesta ST.

I'm not looking for autoX brakes or casual track day brakes, nor do I need to abide by any racing rules or classes. I am looking for an endurance racing brake setup that will be able to withstand at least 1.5 hours of constant hard driving.


1. Castrol SRF racing fluid
2. SS lines
3. Does anyone make brake duct kits? I'm sure they do since these are often used for rally. Wouldn't mind making my own out of the fog light area.
4. Rotors that can take and dissipate heat (cross drilled preferably)
5. Endurance friction pad. I use Pagid yellow RS-29's on my Porsche, which was the same pad they use in 24-hour racing, would LOVE an equal replacement.
6. We can add any other recommendations.


Any good sources on this subject? Or shops in the US who have created Fiesta ST track cars and raced them? I've found a few European sites such as:

http://www.focusrsparts.co.uk/ford-fiesta-st-mk3/cat_288.html (model 2013, problem? I think there are variances between the US and Euro design, perhaps mounting of hardware is not the same?)


I appreciate all input. And especially input from people who have tried, tested, and used braking components for a long season.

 

[Golfguy11800]

Update No.1

Brake Ducting

After compiling research, design and application. The brake ducting will go as follows:

1. Mounting two intake ducts via rivets under the car with 3" silicone hose going to the front rotors.
2. Attaching the silicone hose to a modified rotor dust plate via a duct flange.

Parts:

1. Brake Ducts (x2) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42141/overview/ Part No. ALL42141

• • This was the best design I came across where it would not hang too low under the car for those who are either lowered or get their car airbourne. After installation it will actually not be the lowest point on the car. Many other designs hung too low.

1. 3" inlet duct flanges (x2) http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php Part No. 10350-12
2. Silicone duct hose with smooth interior. Will need about 4' each side. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42152/overview/ Part No. ALL42152
3. Duct Hose clamps (x4) https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3613 Part No.3613-3.25

I will conduct some testing with a pyrometer of before and after installation on a circuit.

I will upload an install article.

Will be talking with motorsport shops tomorrow about the brake pads and rotors.

Concerns:

1. I am concerned that maybe the brakes will run too cold for an aggressive race compound brake pad application. This may call for a design incorporation of modifying the amount of airflow that enters the ducts. How cool would a servo butterfly valve be that is switch activated from inside the car? :mischievous:

 

[gtkat929]

This is really cool(giggity). I am interested to see the end results on this.

 

[Golfguy11800]

All,

The spec of the brakes are coming together nicely. Over the past days and countless hours of research, phone calls to US shops, phone calls to European shops, engineering charts and technical specs.... I am finding it very difficult to find appropriate parts for this car that will meet the need for an endurance brake setup without taking the leap to fiesta R5 rally spec AP racing forged calipers worth thousands of dollars (yet to mention finding a way to buy them).


I want you all to know that after speaking with the engineers at Ford corporate, I can confirm that the part numbers for the European and USA spec Fiesta ST brake pads are the same for the front (BRF-1493). You'd be surprised how hard it was to get that information from Ford corporate... Some didn't want to tell me because they were "not allowed to."

This should help those who are worried about ordering Fiesta ST brake pads that come from the UK and that were developed on UK cars.

I'll report back with my final setup.

So far it is looking like:

1. All the brake ducting that I mentioned earlier and their part No.'s.
2. Brake Pads- Carbotech RP2. http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds.asp#8. Can be purchased from: http://knsbrakes.com/c/car-items/2041_2014 Ford Fiesta ST//4_Race Brake Pads. Call and ask for Ken to get a set of front pads made for you. They have to be "custom made" by sending in your old pads, having the stock material taken off, and then the new material put on. Yes, our cars are just that new, unfortunately.
3. Rotors - http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=StopTech&model=Sport Slotted Cryo-Treated Rotor&group=Sport Slotted Cryo-Treated Rotor&partNum=126.61110CSL&autoMake=Ford&autoModel=Fiesta ST&autoYear=2014&autoModClar=

• 1. High Carbon rotor = less life but high coefficient of friction on the discs. Very good for high heat applications. Will NOT last as long as a non-high carbon disc. It is very good for track pad compounds.
     
     
  2. Cryo treated = longer lasting rotor. It will be stronger and is good for longevity.
     
     
  3. Best option for longevity time attack race use would be Cryogenic treated AND High-Carbon rotors.

I gathered and confirmed that information after talking to the engineering techs at Hawk, EBC, and Centric Plain/ StopTech. I did not want my discs to be high-carbon because I wanted them to have more life with the sacrifice of friction coefficients on the discs.

4. Fluid will be Castrol SRF
5. Will not be installing SS lines at this point.


After further diving into all this information, I learned that I think I received faulty rotors from Ford. I believe the lateral "run out" of my rotors were installed on my car out of what is within the factory maximum allowable delta length of runout from the high spots to low spots.

From the engineers at EBC,

"You can replace the rotors as many times as you like trying to solve vibration and the problem will only go away for a few thousand miles and then return. This means you have purchased new rotors in good faith but the problem IS NOT SOLVED AND WILL NOT GO AWAY PERMANENTLY until you perform this procedure. After this skimming of the rotor surface you will have smooth brakes , more effective brakes and ZERO vibration. It is even a very worthwhile practice when fitting new rotors to have all four rotors skimmed into perfect alignment on your car with this inexpensive procedure.”


More information on lateral runout and how to correct it is explained here for those who don't know about it: