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First oil change

51936 Views 93 Replies 43 Participants Last post by  jmrtsus
1. When will you do your first oil change?

2. Will you perform the oil change yourself, or have the dealer (or third-party) do it?

3. Will you use/specify a certain brand of oil?
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Got mine done at 2k this past Saturday, first thing the service guy said was "You don't need to do this till 5k" I was like "The manual said 2k" (am I correct on that guys?)

Anyways, he was like "Ok, I guess" and we went ahead and did it, it was free with the rewards program anyways.

He tells me every 5k to 7500k and not 10k as the manual suggests, how do you all feel about that? I mean, I know more frequent would be better, but is it neccasary to do so soon, rather than 10k, given the fact it is synth. Or synth blend for the time being atleast.
As much as manufacturers add anti-friction and ultra clean assembly, engines still break in and most of that wear happens early. In my opinion its better to get that factory oil out of there sooner rather than later.

There is no reason to push the change interval right away.

Also with a 21 psi boost level, blow by is going to contaminate the oil more than other cars so a conservative oil change interval is probably smart until we figure out what they can really handle.
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You guys know your going to push the engine hard and shift at redline or 6000 often, even if you're just running up and down the freeway, so change oil early and change often. I never go more than 5000 miles in any car. When autocrossing in the summer it's at the end of every 4 weekends or 2500 miles.....
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My second change was at 6,700 miles, 5,400 after my first change.

Feeling some of the oil as it drained, it seemed clean and although it was black, it was not so black that it stayed black when spread in a thin film on the new filter's gasket.

I'll probably do a used oil analysis after my next change.

I cut open my filter and was impressed by what I saw, the filter media seemed quite clean, not too much gunk between the pleats and the media was straight and in good shape. I would say a 10,000+ mile filter change interval would be fine with the PL20195 and a good oil might last 7,500+.

Its too bad I didn't have a filter cutter for the factory filter at 1,300 but I feel like my engine is well protected and in excellent health despite my harsh treatment.
I did my first oil change at 1100 mi,
I am now at 2500 mi. and I think I will do my second.
Only because I need the free car wash.

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I just had my first oil change this past week with ~7100 mi on the odometer. When I ran the vehicle health report it said that my oil life was at 31%, which falls in line with the 10k mile interval. I don't think I would ever wait that long to get the oil changed, but it's interesting that the dealer put the "10,500 mi" sticker on my car to indicate the next oil change interval. 3k is definitely too soon for the way I drive. I'll see what the VHR says when I hit 15k, but if it's consistent with that it said on the initial report, I'll probably do 7-8k mile intervals between oil changes.
Changed my oil at 1200kms and cut the filter for a look see. Cut a section of the filter media and squeezed in a Vice, doing this removes the oil but leaves the trapped contaminates so its easy to see.


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I spent a minute looking between the pleats and didn't see any flecks like you had there.

Its probably a lot harder to see with an oily filter but I think what you have is the residue of initial break-in.

Next time I bet its cleaner.
When I used to service machines under warranty, I 'd have to cut all the filters to inspected. What you can see is normal. The specs are non-metallic, probably main or big end bearing. Hard to say. Its pretty good actually .
One important tip I can pass along on the ST.. Since the oil filter is horizontally mounted, I'll bet 99% of us install the filter bone dry. You CAN install it fairly wet. Before you dump the oil, fill up the new oil filter a 3rd of the way. Let it sit & absorb the oil, then roll it around a bit. Fill it a bit more, then carefully tilt it horizontal, make sure it is not high enough to spill out. Now install filter. You just saved a few precious millseconds of zero pressure to the turbo. The oil light goes out almost instantly!
Good luck with that.

Even with the car on a lift fishing in a dry filter is a pain in the butt.
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Just FYI for anyone needing to stock up on some mobil 1

Mobil 1 with free Mobil 1 oil filter for $24.99 after $12 coupon. 5w-20 and 10w-30 six quarts

Not sure if amazon still has a free 30 day trial of prime too but that will get you the goods with free 2 day shipping.
THANX! To work the coupon, don't use "ONE CLICK".
I ordered a case of Royal Purple from Amazon and despite using the free slow shipping, it arrived about two days after my order and the rest of my order arrived about a week and a half later.

I don't know if that works for every oil order but I suspect they do that so there is less chance of an oil slick in the shipping facility.

Either way, if you look at your odometer you can see when your oil change should be coming. Order two weeks early and you're set even with slow free shipping.
As you can tell, I didn't listen to the advice about the hose clamps. I changed at 1500 miles and replaced with the recommended blend. I will switch over to full synthetic at 10,000. I am undecided about what filter to use, really. I put on a Bosch Distance Plus but had a hard time finding which size I needed. I went with a D3330.


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How many knuckles must suffer this sorry fate?

For the filter, I suggest the Purolator Pure1 for a few reasons. First, Purolator is the OEM for Motorcraft oil filters. Second, the Pure1 line has all the features of the Motorcraft filter except with a premium filter element that removes a greater percentage of contamination from the oil. Third, the Pure1 is fairly easy to find at many retailers. Finally, I didn't see anything else with construction or quality that looked any better than the Pure1, inside and out.

With that in mind, I chose a slightly larger than stock filter which theoretically reduces the pressure drop across the filter and increases the total amount of contamination the filter can hold before it starts to bypass unfiltered oil.

My initial results suggest that the filter is probably just $3.00 of overkill but for this application, slight overkill is what I'm going for.
I too am a great fan of using the best oil filter that will fit and I have done so for many years.
I also agree that larger version of the same filter should do a better job.

I had to ask.
It just so happens that my friend is the shop foreman at my dealership and my service advisor who I have known for many years.
Both tell me that if the oil filter is not on the master cross-reference list for a specific vehicle, this could be grounds for not allowing a warranty claim.

Now I know wash will kick in with about 3 pages of why they are better and I will probably agree with that too.
I am just relaying what representatives of my dealership say.
Please don't just take my word for this, check with your dealership.

Sent with my retro keyboard and mouse.

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Ford motorcraft oil and filter here. It's what's recommended in the manual. Probably run it for the first 7500 miles then might switch to Mobile 1.
The filter I use is a direct replacement for the FL400s I think. That filter is what Ford based our stock filter on, they just shortened it.

If I ever have to go in for a warranty repair, I'll take it in with a Motorcraft filter.

I would rather protect my engine than my warranty.

There are not that many parts to an oil filter, but if you look at Ford's spec for the stock filter and the FL400s, you can see they both have a silicon anti-drain back valve, and something like 13-14 psi bypass pressure.

The spec for filtration effectiveness is not the same but the Pure1 filter spec exceeds both.

Finally, Purolator makes the Motorcraft for Ford and you can see that many of the internal parts are identical, its really just filter media and length that are different on the inside and the outer can is a little different with an anti-slip coating.

It all comes down to what you are concerned with when you are picking a filter.

I won't tell anyone that they can't use a Motorcraft, just that they can use a Purolator Pure1 as an upgrade that is probably overkill.

The spring clip advice is different, everyone should change that.
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