Ended up doing my first oil change early.
1330 KM (roughly 827 miles).
Stuck with the Motorcraft FL 910 S and 5w20 for now.
1330 KM (roughly 827 miles).
Stuck with the Motorcraft FL 910 S and 5w20 for now.
You must be small to get underneath. I brought the oil and filter but couldn't get underneath. I tried but had to bring it in to get the oil changed.Did mine at 1000. Went with the Motorcraft semi synthetic till I go full synth at 5k.
Didn't need a lift or jack, was easy enough on the ground.
Used the tools shown below. 13mm gear wrench and an oil filter wrench I've had for years. It got the super tight factory filter off no problem.
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Oil filter wrench on the filter.
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When putting the new filter in I found that getting it up close and to the threads while looking was easy enough but getting it to thread while laying on the ground was difficult. I couldn't push the filter into the threads and turn at the same time. I reversed my grip kind of like shown below. I wasn't able to see what I was doing but it made it very easy to catch the threads and fully tighten the filter when holding it this way.
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Not too small, but my driveway has a bit of and incline and a flat. If I park just right the nose of the car is just high enough by maybe 1-2 inches more and I can get the job done without lifting.You must be small to get underneath. I brought the oil and filter but couldn't get underneath. I tried but had to bring it in to get the oil changed.
Did you leave off a zero? Just curious if you did it at 200km (124 miles)I've changed my oil at about 200kms.
I did this on advice from another forum. The theory is get the factory fill out quickly as there will be fine casting material floating around. I'm not sure but since it's my 1st new car in a while and I had the time so I changed it for piece of mind.Did you leave off a zero? Just curious if you did it at 200km (124 miles)
I second that! Had a filter stuck on once... brutal to get off (had it done at a dealership, probably some lackey hired with no training). Had to use a large screw driver and drive it threw the filter to twist it off. Since then I only use K&N on my cars and bikes. Have never had a problem getting a filter off since then, plus you can torque it to spec too.Better than any filter wrench, buy a K&N with a hex nut welded on the bottom. Easiest filter to replace and a top quality product as well. Great idea.
I believe the point he's making is that, Acura, Aston martin, Bentley, Chevrolet, Citroen, Holden, Lexus, McLaren, Mercedes-Benz, Nissan, Porsche, Peugeot, and Vauxhall all have car's that have Mobil 1 in them from the factory.Hmm, a Mobil FAQ that says you can use Mobil oil?
You won't see that every day.
Read chr0n0phage's comment below yours to get an understanding. You can also look at other sites: http://www.pennzoil.com/learn-about-motor-oil/synthetic-oil/Hmm, a Mobil FAQ that says you can use Mobil oil?
You won't see that every day.
Times change, products change, methods change all from research and improvements. Different companies have different specifications, procedures, budgets, etc for choosing one thing over another which is why not everyone has Mobil 1, or Amsoil, or Pennzoil, or Royal Purple, etc. I do see how some manufacturers may use a certain product b/c of an agreement, or price break, or contract so that's always good to question but the thing to take away from this is not in regards to using Mobil 1 but determining whether the old adage of "conventional only for break in until xxxx miles" still holds water. The search continues...So some of their cars use Mobile 1 for break in, why not all?
Why do a few exceptions make a rule?
How many of those cars use Mobile 1 so that the manufacturer gets a price break on all Mobile oil, synthetic and conventional?
Mobile 1 isn't a bad product but in general you should decide on research or personal experience more than marketing.