First oil change

STDaddy

· #61 · Mar 2, 2014

Bluto said:
If you do a DIY change a quality cap type filter wrench that fits the flutes on the end of the filter is a big help, the OEM filter is on very tight from the factory and the access is a bit awkward. I happened to have a Hazet 2169 left over from another vehicle and it fit perfectly and worked great...from what I've read some have had trouble getting the factory filter off but this tool makes it easy. I'd definitely go for a name brand filter wrench, some of the low $$$ Chinese knockoffs look right but don't work well.

Great tip! Thanks.

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Mikeygti

· #62 · Mar 2, 2014

I've changed all my vehicle's oil as per manufacuter's spec.They have all lived long and prospered

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D

DaveSave

· #63 · Mar 5, 2014

WRC Fan said:
1. When will you do your first oil change?

2. Will you perform the oil change yourself, or have the dealer (or third-party) do it?

3. Will you use/specify a certain brand of oil?

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D

From a friend who is a Porsche Master Tech and also builds race engines with regards to early oil changes-
"you really can't go too wrong following the mfg'r guidelines. I'd go with your gut.
Filter will catch anything bad, and the factory fill oil is usually superior for break in. Seating rings, etc."

'14 ST w/ 1500 mi (original, clean looking oil)

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ST-in-Mich

· #65 · Mar 5, 2014

Im coming up on 750ish miles and am going to do a Mobile1/PL20195 either this weekend or the next.

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wash

· #66 · Mar 7, 2014

I just did my third oil change, at 11,600.

Still using the PL20195 filter.

Afterward I was looking at the internet and read that the Fiesta ST filter is not actually the FL-910s but is the FL-2057.

I'm still fairly confident that everything in the PL20195 is equal to or better than OEM but I can't find any info on the FL-2057.

Two things I know is that the FL-2057 is roughly the same size as the FL-910s so the filter element can not be as big as the PL20195 and the threads must be identical because I've never had more trouble with the oil filter threads than when I removed the first filter.

Any way, more research is warranted but I think the 2.0 EcoBoost used the FL-910s so I'm still feeling good about using the PL20195 until I can figure out what's in the FL-2057.

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ST-in-Mich

· #67 · Mar 7, 2014

wash said:
I just did my third oil change, at 11,600.

Still using the PL20195 filter.

Afterward I was looking at the internet and read that the Fiesta ST filter is not actually the FL-910s but is the FL-2057.

I'm still fairly confident that everything in the PL20195 is equal to or better than OEM but I can't find any info on the FL-2057.

Two things I know is that the FL-2057 is roughly the same size as the FL-910s so the filter element can not be as big as the PL20195 and the threads must be identical because I've never had more trouble with the oil filter threads than when I removed the first filter.

Any way, more research is warranted but I think the 2.0 EcoBoost used the FL-910s so I'm still feeling good about using the PL20195 until I can figure out what's in the FL-2057.

I went to http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2014&m=Ford&mo=Fiesta#Search and went under filters. and near the bottom is this:

with the 1.0L Ecoboost using a FL-2050

and the 1.6L TiVCT using the FL-910S

See less See more

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wash

· #68 · Mar 7, 2014

Yes, but what is the difference?

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ST-in-Mich

· #69 · Mar 7, 2014

wash said:
Yes, but what is the difference?

Still trying to find that out. They have 0 information at all about the 2050 or the 2057. And all it says about the 910S is the dimensions/weight.

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wash

· #70 · Mar 7, 2014

Yeah, the 910s has been around long enough that people have cut them open to see the construction and there are some filtration specs too.

My search for FL-2057 returned a few Fiesta web sites, nothing from Ford, then various unrelated results.

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moff3tt

· #71 · Mar 24, 2014 (Edited)

WRC Fan said:
1. When will you do your first oil change?

I just hit a tad over 1000 miles, which in the supplement manual for the ST is the break in period.

2. Will you perform the oil change yourself, or have the dealer (or third-party) do it?

I will be doing it myself today or tomorrow if the weather allows.

3. Will you use/specify a certain brand of oil?

I am considering Rotella (I put it in everything because it's cheap) but it doesn't come in a viscosity that is even close to the 5w-20 in the engine. I prefer Wix filters.

I did some research and the full synthetic Rotella is 5w-40 which sounds awesome for South Texas where I will be running my car hard in 100*F weather in a few short months.

[edit] Turns out Rotella T6 full syn is only for API SM not API SN (while I don't doubt that it is good enough since you can use Rotella T for motorcycle wet clutches haha) it still doesn't technically meet the requirements and will then not meet warranty requirements

I'm sure Rotella is getting things tested though and will eventually meet the requirements.

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BlackBird

· #72 · Apr 23, 2014

I'll probably do the same as with my last car--1500mi and then 7500 intervals with a top shelf full synthetic and Bosch filters. I used to like Castrol Edge FST, and was using AMSOIL Signature Synthetic 0W-20, but I think I might go to Penzoil Ultra / Platinum (whatever they're calling it after their rebranding efforts). It's a high quality synthetic with mostly GTL stock meeting SN formulation and it's a good deal cheaper than the AMSOIL I've used, and as far as UOAs show, not any worse.

It also seems to be the reigning champ at BITOG for the moment, and that's as decent a barometer as any as to who's on top of the synthetic game.

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wash

· #73 · Apr 23, 2014

From what I can tell, the SN spec does not have anything to do with making oil perform better, it just limits additives so that if you are burning oil it won't foul the catalytic converter or oxygen sensors.

But one of the things we are trying to avoid by using premium oils is burning oil...

That seems to be backed up on BITOG because the better SM oil UOAs seem to beat any SN that is tested.

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BlackBird

· #74 · Apr 23, 2014

Not everyone's gotten on board with SN either yet, I don't think. There are some stragglers (someone mentioned Shell Rotella, for instance). It'll come and then we'll see some really competitive results. If anyone wants something long-wearing, the go-to is probably still M1EP.

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wash

· #75 · Apr 23, 2014

If the SN spec was better or even equal, we would already have competitive results and some of the good SM oils would have met the spec before it was introduced. Neither of those have happened.

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BlackBird

· #76 · Apr 27, 2014

I'm debating what to do for my first change. Either PU, or AMSOIL SSO. I still have my membership-thingy for a few months with AMSOIL so I can get a slight discount, but I'm not so sure it's worth it (and while I'm sure it's fine, SSO doesn't meet Ford's warranty-requirement spec). I can't find PU locally anymore (and no one seems to have PUP yet in either single quarts or the 5-qt jug) so I might just order PU off Amazon; they have a good deal going for 6 qts at $45 with free shipping. I can't argue with that.

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Izzy

· #77 · Feb 7, 2015

I've used multiple full synthetic oils, but after two failures (aspirated & turbo) with Mobil 1 I changed to Amsoil. Without a doubt the best oil I've ever used. As long as they keep their current standards I'll be purchasing their oil & filters. If you have not tried it you owe it to yourself.

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MrEss

· #78 · Oct 25, 2015

wash said:
As much as manufacturers add anti-friction and ultra clean assembly, engines still break in and most of that wear happens early. In my opinion its better to get that factory oil out of there sooner rather than later.

There is no reason to push the change interval right away.

Also with a 21 psi boost level, blow by is going to contaminate the oil more than other cars so a conservative oil change interval is probably smart until we figure out what they can really handle.

I would not describe what I found in my 350 mile from new drain oil as evidence of super clean assembly processes. Lots of fine particles. More than twenty large metal chips and a plethora of what looks like Teflon pipe tape fragments. I would not have run this stuff through the engine for any longer time. My 11 fiesta had some particles and bits when I first drained it. But not to this degree. I would recommend everyone at least drain into a clean pan and then install a new filter then pour the original oil through a paint strainer before putting it back into the engine and topping off with new! You might be shocked at how much crap is in the oil!

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koozy

· #79 · Oct 25, 2015

5

here's some facts for my first oil change at 5,000 miles.

Factory filled oil with 5,000 miles analysis results.

I also cut the factory installed filter open. Note that that the OE filter is shorter than the FL-910S, the part number on it is 1714387BM5G6714AA. The condition was pretty good, the filter media does not appear to be full of particles to the naked eye. There were some larger contaminants outside in the residual oil inside the can, but nothing that made it back into the motor as the filter was doing it's job preventing that.

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MrEss

· #80 · Oct 26, 2015 (Edited)

ST-in-Mich said:
Still trying to find that out. They have 0 information at all about the 2050 or the 2057. And all it says about the 910S is the dimensions/weight.

One difference in them over the FL 910S is the S suffix. It means the filter has an internal anti drain back valve. This feature prevents that death rattle dry start that occurs when the oil pump has to refill the filter before oil flows to bearings or lifters. The first Motorcraft filter with this feature was the now obsolete FL 2005 that was first available in 1997. It is a good feature to have in any filter. I am not aware of any current Ford product that does not specify an anti drain back type of oil filter.

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