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First oil change

51936 Views 93 Replies 43 Participants Last post by  jmrtsus
1. When will you do your first oil change?

2. Will you perform the oil change yourself, or have the dealer (or third-party) do it?

3. Will you use/specify a certain brand of oil?
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here's some facts for my first oil change at 5,000 miles.

Factory filled oil with 5,000 miles analysis results.
I am sure the additives and stability agents are just fine. But the extra chunks and bits are just not a desired situation for even 500 miles, let alone 5 or 10 thousand miles.


I also cut the factory installed filter open. Note that that the OE filter is shorter than the FL-910S, the part number on it is 1714387BM5G6714AA. The condition was pretty good, the filter media does not appear to be full of particles to the naked eye. There were some larger contaminants outside in the residual oil inside the can, but nothing that made it back into the motor as the filter was doing it's job preventing that.







that's what the filter is there for and according to the analysis it did it's job just fine. YMMV.
Just got mine done at 1300 miles. Running pennzoil full synthetic. Had it done at a local shop
Hello all,

Curiosity question: if I were to do my oil change at a local shop for example, would that void my warranty or it doesn't matter whether I do oil changes at the dealer or a shop? Thanks.
Also what filter types and oil brands would you recommend? I'm not sure what the dealer will use so maybe I should bring my own oil? Thank you.
Keep a record and you'll be good. If I were doing my own, it would be Mobile 1 oil and WIX filters. In the Healey I use WIX and Valvoline VR1 for the zinc content, but modern engines don't need it, (nor to they like 20/50)
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I'm using Valvoline full synthetic with the Bosch Performance Filter D3330 (ironically, same one for my neon). I've been changing it every 3000 miles. Very excessive, but I run the crap out of her.
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Probably first few oil changes I'll do at the dealer. Then I'd rather switch to a mechanic I trust (although he's far) or get the equipment and place to do it on my own :p Any advice on keep running the oil they put on the oil cap, or I can now switch to full synthetic?
The oil cap just says the weight. The manual will specify the motorola synthetic blend. I've been using full synthetic since about 1500 miles. Im at... 34,800 now... I think...
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Oh so basically I can switch to synthetic any time, right? Also do you run a Group IV synthetic? If so, what are some brands that are true 100% synthetic?
G
This may be a silly question... but on my past vehicle, I always used a drain plug crush washer. Is it recommended to use one with the FiST?
Oh so basically I can switch to synthetic any time, right? Also do you run a Group IV synthetic? If so, what are some brands that are true 100% synthetic?
Amsoil is 100% synthetic. I run their oil in all my cars, power equipment, and boat.
I did my first at 1300 miles. Replaced the filter with a Motorcraft FL 400s, it is about 1 inch longer than the 910 so more filter area. I used the Motorcraft blend for the first change as I believe break-in should have some dino oil in the engine. Ford has used Phillips 66 oil products for 40 years, the blend is said to be the Phillips 66 TropArtic. At 3000 miles I will switch to the Motorcraft Full synthetic, it too is a Phillips 66 product, Kendall GT oil with Titanium. These are $19 for a 5 quart jugs.......great oils and prices. The Kendall GT uses food grade mineral oil as the base for the synthetic. Can't get much more pure than food grade. I will trust Ford's judgment on this.....they can buy any oil and chose these. I did notice two things, first the factory oil filter is not a 910. I assume as the engines are built in the UK the filter is a European version. Second the oil in the car was not the Ford Syn Blend, stuff was green!
jmrtsus, the green stuff you saw was a color dye used to detect leaks in the new system. From what I've been told it will wear out during the first 1000 or so miles as more carbon builds up in the oil. So your oil was good at 1300, care to elaborate what was the reason to change it at 1300? I did my first at 5,000 miles, it was almost like new.
Yea, same reason you use a break in oil on a newly built engine. Most wear-in occurs in the first few hundreds of miles. I guess with better production and micro honing it may not need it now but it makes me happy! So this is a cheap way to clean out the initial wear particles and put in a clean filter. Is it needed? Who knows? It did make me more comfortable in doing what I have always done with a new car or a new engine I built. I don't do much wrenching any more and my experience was 60's and 70's small block V8's. I do help my son rebuild GM LS engines at his shop when he needs help now and he does a change after the first 200 miles. Figures it is cheap insurance as he buys oil and filters in bulk. I do know with over 20 cars I have owned I have never had an oil related failures with one car still driving well when I finally let it go with over 300K, nothing done except but valve adjustments (30 min.) and oil changes (dino oil). As I said who knows what is best.....but this will be my last new car so I will over pamper her and let the grandkids fight over who gets it when I am too damn old to hoon!
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