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Since there is no double DIN dash kit for the FiST (just the crappy single DIN one that leaves you with a 6.5" dead screen) has anyone been able to get a good sounding system put in this car? I know you can get the line out converter etc but that doesn't give you very good sound at all since there aren't any equalizer/tuning options. My friend said that I could get a good DSP (which are pretty expensive) and a 4 channel amp and it would sound great. Just wondering if there's a cheaper way to go with this.

I had my system in my 2011 Fiesta SE, had the single dash kit for it and it sounded great. I just don't want the 6.5" screen to go to waste if I did that in this car. It's a pretty nice function plus I also have the extra navigation package (didn't want it but that's what it came with) so that would be $800 put to waste right there lol. I doubt there is any way to add an aftermarket stereo and still make the touchscreen work?
 

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I finally bit the bullet and had a subwoofer installed in my 2014 FiST today. I selected a JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 powered by a JL Audio XD300/1v2. I picked that sub/enclosure because if you remove the grill, it just barely fits under the rear floor. The amp easily fits on a small rack on the other side of the spare. I think it's plenty for the car. In fact, my first impression is that it's been set a bit too loud for a decent balance with the rest of the system, but I'll give it a solid week before I crank it down. Here's a pic so you can see the install.

I say it barely fits because the subwoofer ring makes an impression on the underside of the floor, in the lining. I'm not totally comfortable with that, especially if the surround and cone starts striking it. But we'll see. I asked them to include extra wiring so I could move it above the floor if I wanted to. I rarely go for warranties, but in this case, I took two years on the sub in case it gets damaged where it is.
 

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I finally bit the bullet and had a subwoofer installed in my 2014 FiST today. I selected a JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 powered by a JL Audio XD300/1v2. I picked that sub/enclosure because if you remove the grill, it just barely fits under the rear floor. The amp easily fits on a small rack on the other side of the spare. I think it's plenty for the car. In fact, my first impression is that it's been set a bit too loud for a decent balance with the rest of the system, but I'll give it a solid week before I crank it down. Here's a pic so you can see the install.

I say it barely fits because the subwoofer ring makes an impression on the underside of the floor, in the lining. I'm not totally comfortable with that, especially if the surround and cone starts striking it. But we'll see. I asked them to include extra wiring so I could move it above the floor if I wanted to. I rarely go for warranties, but in this case, I took two years on the sub in case it gets damaged where it is.

Thanks for the pic, I went and did similar to my 2015, although stuck with the 6" version and to alleviate the clearance issue, I had them rest the cargo floor on top of the normal insert and fabricate a quick and cheap block that make the floor level again. I'll post pics if that wasn't clear enough...great sound now, thanks for the idea.
 

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Talk radio always sounds good on a shite system grampa....to get a good system in our FiSTs' will take a heart surgeon/brain surgeon/Ford engineer with no butterfingers! I would love to hear of a proper install of an sound system upgrade...Rick RAAM may have a solution....just as long as it isn't 3 pages long and costing 8000 dollars...anywho...
And here my 65 y.o. brain was thinking that the stock system sounded pretty darn good...[/QUOTE
 

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Thanks for the pic, I went and did similar to my 2015, although stuck with the 6" version and to alleviate the clearance issue, I had them rest the cargo floor on top of the normal insert and fabricate a quick and cheap block that make the floor level again. I'll post pics if that wasn't clear enough...great sound now, thanks for the idea.
I thought I'd let everyone know that, so far, so good. The system sounds so much better, although it now excels at revealing bad mix/mastering jobs. And certain radio stations, ugh. But I was expecting some of that. The good news is that music I really enjoy at home I now truly enjoy in the car. And the sub is surviving just fine under the floor back there, too. I have thought about lifting the floor a tad like you suggest(two 1/2" to 1" blocks would suffice), but it's just not worth the trouble for my install.

I love the sound of the engine/exhaust, too, but sometimes, I just gotta have my tunes!
 

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Hi all! Been browsing around this forum since I picked up my FiSt in July. Just haven't bothered to post. But anyway, sound. The stock system which totaled 100 watts!!! Was completely useless. Even talk radio sounded shit. So after a few consultations with the guys at my favorite audio shop I had them set me up what I think is pretty much the best you could have for this car.

So we started with JL C3 650's all around. Though there was talk of doing C2s in the back for cost saving, I figured what the hell, spend the extra bucks. Through one of the JLs new compact 10 inch subs in the back and wired it all to a JL XD 700 amp. Now if you don't care as much about the bass, you could easily drop the sub and still have a great system. Just don't forget your dynamat!!

Nice crisp highs, awesome mids and for a compact sub, I could rattle the world if I wanted. All depends on music taste. But my taste is random at best. So it suits each genre very well.

We have talked about adding a processor down the line to completely make the Sony system useless (minus the screen). Car audio was a lot easier when you could just add a head unit. But alas they control half the car nowadays.
 

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just a quick update to give you more information about adding an aftermarket stereo... the main problem about it is that you can no longer use the stock touchscreen trim since it mates with the radio trim differently. ive been running my kenwood radio for almost a year now without anny issues. the only thing that isn't working anymore is the navigation voice and voice commands .. everything else still works on the screen (navi, settings, etc) except the audio part... All you need is the basic wire harness for the ford radio and find a switched power output since there is no "accessory". With the new Sync3 that came out on the 2016 models i might go back with a stock radio and use a DSP but i need to confirm that it is a plug n play affair to upgrade to sync3. From what guys told me it's just a matter of swapping the screen with the unit behind. Everything else should be the same..
 

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In order to keep the screen functional I'd imagine you would need to keep the sony head unit.

You could always add a pre-amp equalizer & crossover, which aren't too expensive.

What exactly is that? I went to an audio shop this past week, and they said my best option is an amp and subwoofer and then quoted me close to $1000 (including installation).

All I need is just something that can give me more control, like an equalizer. I do like bass, but I think the Subwoofer is overkill and I don't like the idea of weighing my car down. In an older car I had, I added a single din deck and it had enabled me to adjust my bass, treble, etc, and that gave me plenty of bass from my stock speakers, and I had no subwoofer in the car. Night and day difference.

So when an audio shop tries to push me to buy a subwoofer, I'm kind of thinking, is that really the ONLY solution?? cause I really don't have a budget for that, plus, it's overkill for what I need.
 

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You want more control than the Bass, Mid and Treble controls for the stock system? I don't think you're going to get much more out of it no matter how much you tune it. New speakers...THAT could make a huge difference. A pre-amp "anything" is something that goes between the head unit/radio and any outboard amps you may have. As it is, it's the component you could buy AFTER an external amp. And probably speakers. The crossover sends only the low sounds to the subs, and the rest of the sound to the other speakers so each speaker is only playing the part of the sound that it's really designed for. Man, I miss my old system two cars ago :) I haven't had a Sony "system" in 20 years...until now.
 

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i tried a DSP in a friend's car but the stock radio is just a shitty source .. if you want good SQ you need to replace it with an aftermarket radio. The only real downside about this is that while the screen and gps still works, the plastic trim that fits over the screen isn't compatible with aftermarket dash kits..
 

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I finally bit the bullet and had a subwoofer installed in my 2014 FiST today. I selected a JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 powered by a JL Audio XD300/1v2. I picked that sub/enclosure because if you remove the grill, it just barely fits under the rear floor. The amp easily fits on a small rack on the other side of the spare. I think it's plenty for the car. In fact, my first impression is that it's been set a bit too loud for a decent balance with the rest of the system, but I'll give it a solid week before I crank it down. Here's a pic so you can see the install.

I say it barely fits because the subwoofer ring makes an impression on the underside of the floor, in the lining. I'm not totally comfortable with that, especially if the surround and cone starts striking it. But we'll see. I asked them to include extra wiring so I could move it above the floor if I wanted to. I rarely go for warranties, but in this case, I took two years on the sub in case it gets damaged where it is.
How much did this cost you?

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How much did this cost you?

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It was just under $800 installed. After they quoted me, I went online and found all the parts at Crutchfield and added it up to calculate how much I could save if I installed it myself. I felt the difference was worth their hassle and not mine. The installation guy made a little board for mounting the amp in my trunk next to the spare, and even covered the board with carpet(which he didn't have to do, since no one would ever see it).
 

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I dont have a service manual yet so I'm not sure if this will work but...

...what if you took out the screen and perhaps the front piece and place a din or double din in there? Is that possible. Does anyone know if there is anything major that could prevent that? Besides some double din have their own screen if I'm not mistaken.

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