[McRib 1s Back]

While I can't disclose details around brand or model quite yet, I can say that a couple great new options are coming out soon.

We don't have a lot of options, we already know that. In addition to the good value that the BC setup offers (see Joe @ 2J Racing group-buy thread), there will be a new premium enthusiast and motorsports-quality option in the near-future, too.

I'm testing a set that is using lower cost, but high quality, galvanized components that are designed for rugged durability (especially in the rust belt!), very good ride quality, and a huge improvement in handling. These units will be priced competitively.

Soon, I'll be testing a top-shelf configuration that will be perfect for those looking for an edge on track days or club racing.

These coilovers will feature camber plates for easy adjustment.

 

[Tuningvelocity]

Good to hear that new things are coming. Keep the rally guys in mind :thumbsup:

 

[was-an-M]

Sweet. Great to hear that more options are on the way!

 

[svt3d]

Any new news?

 

[McRib 1s Back]

Any new news?

The first set arrived! After the obligatory product shots, I'm getting them installed. These are the street oriented set. I'll post more details soon.

 

[JP6]

Did the budget ones or top shelf set arrive first?

 

[BlueBomber]

I am going to guess that the brand name is two letters, and since it's galvanized I'm going to guess KW shock bodies and not ST Suspensions and not Vogtlands.

When you say very good ride quality, softer or harsher than stock?

 

[McRib 1s Back]

The more "value oriented" ones arrived first. I really can't say much about the brand/model still -- because they'll be custom for our application and might be marketed in different ways. Between in-house arrangements and private label affairs, this product could arrive in a variety of different ways. I don't want to speak out of turn here, and I think you guys understand that.

Ride quality is expected to be very "streetable" with better rebound control; that's a common criticism of the stock shock bodies. Incidentally, it's thought that OEM shocks have a bit too much rebound to increase long-term durability (they planned for this car to carry a load close to its capacity rating). Think about how much better your car rides with an extra body or two in it! So, I'd say "better composed" with the ability to tune some facets of ride quality additionally.

 

[McRib 1s Back]

These shocks look great; I'm installing them tomorrow! I'll post driving impressions soon.

 

[McRib 1s Back]

I only have a few miles on these, but initial impressions match my pre-installation expectations. There are no weird noises, it is stiffer, yet more composed ride quality. The funky too-stiff rebound bouncing is gone! I'm aiming to keep these as soft as possible while controlling unwanted body motion.

So, some experimentation is needed before I can say much of substance. I need to get the car aligned again, and I'm going to -4 degrees of camber this time around.

 

[McRib 1s Back]

The car is ready for another track day! Big Willow or SoW would be a nice comparison track run.

I'm running -4 degrees of camber up front and the car is perfectly corner-weight balanced 50/50, L/R, with me in it. 1/8" toe out. It drives great on the street, but this is no street configuration! I'd imagine some pretty serious tire wear issues in a hurry.

The car is only a bit lower than before. I was after optimal rake and watched the front control arms to avoid going too low.

Incidentally the scales read 2740 pounds with driver and 3/4 tank of fuel! That's already lighter than I expected it to be (call my weight 180 pounds). For a full track day I go between 50% to 75% of fuel capacity. Now that I take a five gallon fuel can along, I'll target closer to a half tank.

 

[stuntdoogie]

How do you corner balance suspension?

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[BRGT350]

How do you corner balance suspension?

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You set the car on scales and adjust the heights fore-aft, left-right until the car is balanced or as close to balanced as possible. It is usually done with half full tank of fuel and a bunch of crap on the driver's seat to simulate the driver's weight. As you raise the front, the weight shifts to the rear. Lower the rear, the weight shifts again to the rear. It is always a compromise of geometry and balance, unless you are lucky enough to get 50/50 without upsetting the front geometry.

I am still interested in coil-overs since the ST is a tad bit stiff in rebound, a little high for the summer, and too low for the winter. With the intercooler piping so low in the car, I would like more ground clearence in case of another 180" snowfall winter. The other options are tank treads or moving to Florida.

 

[stuntdoogie]

So basically a shop with special balancing equipment is needed?

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[BRGT350]

yes and no. You can buy scales from Longacre and do the measurements on a flat peice of cement. Using levers, you can use bathroom scales. I had the plans someplace to make the levers to cut the corner weight down to something a bathroom scale could read. On my Mustang, I just decided to raise the front ride height, lower the rear, move as much stuff as I could to the rear or center of the car. I figure it is good enough considering the driver is the biggest limiting factor in the car and not the suspension.

 

[wash]

Corner weights are pretty important. If they are too far out of whack your handling balance will be different turning right vs. left.

If you have coilovers and are racing you should do it at every opportunity.

The bathroom scale thing works but electronic scales with a digital read out are more accurate and some do the cross weight math for you, much easier.

If you are serious, disconnect your front anti-sway bar before adjusting coilovers and then get adjustable end links so you can pre-load the bar.

As mentioned in another thread, stock we don't have much for suspension adjustment so pre-loading your anti-sway bar may be the knob you need to get the cross weight close.

 

[stuntdoogie]

I feel like I need to corner balance mine with bc coils.

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[raamaudio]

I never thought of using sway bar links to help dial in the corner balance, makes since, not a cure, a bandaid, but far better than nothing

I have scales and parts to make my teflon lined adjustable end links, will have coilovers, camber plates, adjustable castor rear front control arm bushings and one way or another more rear camber.

 

[onederer]

-4 degrees? good grief. That is a bit much for my commuting with the occasional canyon drive.

 

[McRib 1s Back]

-4 degrees? good grief. That is a bit much for my commuting with the occasional canyon drive.

Yeah.

It's not a DD, but still street legal (for a bit longer!). It's great fun on the street!

Also, yes, corner-weight balance your setup -- it's a big reason to go with this configuration in the first place! My rig was setup with the pro-series LongAcre "ComputerScale" @ West End Alignment. It's precisely 50/50, and you can feel the difference.

I plan to switch out my BFG R1s for Hankook Z214 C51s to really take advantage of these camber settings.