[stuntdoogie]

Joe you Rock! Cant wait to receive my AP. How you like 1st gear compares to stock?

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I like the extended rev limit. No more throttle cutting early

 

[McRib 1s Back]

CONFIRMED - 91oct MAP is the one to run. Definitely picked up more power. 93oct is a dud. Possibly too much advance or knock count - I havent data logged yet.

Glad I saw this post bc I wasnt too happy with the performance and was actually going to run the stock map. 91 is way better than 93

That's great news! Do you have access to higher octane gas? Based on Randy's comments, I'll try it (the 93 octane map) on 96/97 octane fuel.

For our car, that's six gallons of 100 and about five gallons of 91 CA pee- water.

 

[stuntdoogie]

I like the extended rev limit. No more throttle cutting early

Thats very Nawce...

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[McRib 1s Back]

I'm going switch to the 91oct map now and post the results. The AP location is nice bc I have a clear view of the 5 gauges and it doesnt hinder the use of the stalk. I prefer to see boost, AFR, intake air temp, water temp and the all important oil temp. I never step in the throttle until the oil is over 140 deg and the water is 180 or higher. Its fun to see how well the IC cools the charge with the IAT reading. Most of the time its nearly a degree off from ambient.

Based on this, I tried out the six gauge layout.

While it's pretty busy, and a lot smaller text, it's fun! I put boost in the upper left, then paired air intake next to intake charge temp -- watching the inverse relationship while under long periods of boost is interesting!

It's also good to know oil and coolant temps for the reasons you specified. The bottom right, and least significant metric, is reserved for battery voltage.

In the A-pillar corner location, all gauges are easily read. I'm happy with this.

 

[McRib 1s Back]

That's great news! Do you have access to higher octane gas? Based on Randy's comments, I'll try it (the 93 octane map) on 96/97 octane fuel.

For our car, that's six gallons of 100 and about five gallons of 91 CA pee- water.

Freshly armed with a full tank of 100 octane fuel, I'm ready to test! I originally planned to just make a 96/97 octane mix, but that wouldn't save me much money. Worse yet, I'd be wondering if that extra bit of higher test fuel that I didn't get, would have made the difference, should I have encounter bad results.

In the interest of good science, I filled the tank with 100 octane, then drove home (14.5 miles) using the same "91 Octane v100" map (plenty of time to mix and make use of nearly 100 octane fuel). For reference, I would say I had less than half a gallon 91 octane in the tank to start -- at worst, I'm running 99 octane fuel now.

The change even with this map was obvious. It's more "crisp' feeling from tip-in to WOT. By immediate, I mean moments after pulling away from the station! If nothing else, the car takes advantage of the better fuel with the 91 octane map. Again, it's cheap insurance on a track day (especially hot ones!). This particular change is just due to the computer dynamically ramping up spark advance with more headroom.

Back in my garage, I switched to the "93 Octane v100" map. It's confirmed loaded, and now I'm going to head out for some driving along the same route (and my secret industrial park track!).

I'm looking for the same feeling of crisp throttle response and good boost -- and more! Back-to-back driving should make it obvious. If I encounter obviously bad results, I'll start data logging. I'm particularly interested in what the knock sensors record. Back in a bit...

 

[McRib 1s Back]

The 93 octane map works great on 100 octane fuel...

This is far from conclusive, but it looks like something about the 93 octane map is just too far out-of-bounds for regular 93 octane fuel (and maybe even better fuel!). My gut feeling is that it's way too aggressive with timing. Since nothing bad/wrong happened, I can't say what. This APv3 is a bit different and I don't seem to have access to the variety of other knock listening metrics from the past (maybe that's coming too -- where's "DAM", wait that's a Subaru thing?!). I didn't hear any knocking, and it felt great everywhere. Perhaps the base map was made with 100 octane fuel by accident?

I burned just under a 1/4 tank of this precious fuel and did three back-to-back tests of 91 vs 93 map tests in the same conditions. The 93 octane map is better everywhere for me. This isn't sustainable, of course! At this rate, I'll only be able to drive around another day before having to get more 100 octane gas! Hey, it's only a little more than twice the cost of "premium" fuel!

I think Cobb is getting this message from customers and partners like FSWERKS, alike. I don't feel a need to dog pile. I'm happy with the maps, but I'd only run this 93 octane map on 100 octane fuel until something changes. It looks like I'll have to go back to the old 91 octane map in the near future. YMMVG!

 

[wash]

This is the reason why I don't own an Accessport yet, the lack of tuning software means I would have to rely on someone else's idea of what kind of fuel, parts and a safe tune I should have.

Release tuning software and I'll order one that same day.

 

[stuntdoogie]

I havnt tried 93 map and probably wont cause im Kinda afraid to after hearing your testimonies. Dont wanna fudge my engine.
91 seems stable enough for me with 93 octane.
Mcrib does your engine feel like it vibrates a bit more after the tune?

 

[McRib 1s Back]

I havnt tried 93 map and probably wont cause im Kinda afraid to after hearing your testimonies. Dont wanna fudge my engine.
91 seems stable enough for me with 93 octane.
Mcrib does your engine feel like it vibrates a bit more after the tune?

I think 91 is fine, all around. I agree, leave 93 alone for now.

More noise, so yeah, more vibrations is fair. I have more induction noise with the air filter too -- but nothing " off". I'm still happy with this setup. Enjoy it!

 

[stuntdoogie]

When running the vehicle health report is it ok to leave the tune or revert to stock?

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[COBB]

The FiestaST tuning logic is very "smart" in how it applies timing and compensates for knock. First, there is a master timing correction called Octane Adjustment Ratio (OAR). After most flashes, it starts at 0. After it learns based on conditions under load (boost), it will go towards -1 (the best: good fuel, most timing added) or towards 1 (the worst: car is unhappy, least timing applied).

Then, you can actively monitor the timing correction in cylinder 1. If timing is added, that is good and normal and the car is happy. If the car detects knock, it will pull timing and you can instantly see the corrections using the AP. It is a very active system, so even if you had a tank of bad fuel, the car would "save itself".

Ian

 

[COBB]

Also, there is tons of great tuning information in our tuning guide. The Fiesta will be very similar minus some boost tuning.

https://static.cobbtuning.com/support/docs/tuningguide/Ford/AccessTUNER_HelpFile_Ford.pdf

Ian

 

[McRib 1s Back]

When running the vehicle health report is it ok to leave the tune or revert to stock?

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It's fine either way. Just follow the basic checklist regarding being on level ground, no hand brake, etc.

 

[McRib 1s Back]

The FiestaST tuning logic is very "smart" in how it applies timing and compensates for knock. First, there is a master timing correction called Octane Adjustment Ratio (OAR). After most flashes, it starts at 0. After it learns based on conditions under load (boost), it will go towards -1 (the best: good fuel, most timing added) or towards 1 (the worst: car is unhappy, least timing applied).

Then, you can actively monitor the timing correction in cylinder 1. If timing is added, that is good and normal and the car is happy. If the car detects knock, it will pull timing and you can instantly see the corrections using the AP. It is a very active system, so even if you had a tank of bad fuel, the car would "save itself".

Ian

Thank you for this -- I'm going to check out OAR. My car is running great with both 91 and 93 programs, and I'm optimistic that my car will report a -1 value there. I'm running 100 octane fuel now, however...

The guys with issues are talking about problems specific to the 93 map with 93+ octane fuel. The fact that the 91 octane map feels better to them, tells me we're likely to see the system is yanking out all kinds of timing on the 93 map. This should be very revealing.

I'll check out those other tuning resources, I really appreciate it. We're big fans of your work here, and I know a lot of development went into this map. It's a work-in-progress, and we get that too. I'm interested in both your maps and those through partners like FSWERKS. I appreciate the reply and good information!

 

[McRib 1s Back]

The car is confirmed "happy". I'm seeing "-1" OAR-L and it looks like it's running as much advanced timing as possible.

This is for the 93 octane map on 100 octane fuel.

I'm going to consider this my race map, and I'll run 100 octane fuel with it at the track.

I'll simply run a mixed fuel blend on the street (target of closer to 93/94) on the 91 octane map to get better performance than what I'd get on mere 91 octane fuel.

Here's a photo after some hard "laps" at my local industrial park. It's wonderfully empty on holidays or Sundays and a (relatively) safe way to practice tail wagging drifts too!

Remarkably low engine temps. 70 deg F ambient:

 

[stuntdoogie]

Whats the highest your oil temp has gone? Mine reached 200 the other nite with sone agressive spirited driving.

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[McRib 1s Back]

I've recorded 199, briefly, in the past. Only 189 deg F today. 200 is not a problem at all.

Recall that Joe saw 231 deg F for oil and around 200 for coolant. These really are okay numbers for hard track use.

I bet the Focus ST runs way hotter, and we know their stock brakes melt down when Randy Pobst drives it hard!

My 370Z on the same test would nearly overheat! No kidding. This little car sheds heat very well.

Edit: add comments about track temps.

 

[spangenb]

I have my Cobb AccessPort V3 mount and wiring permanently installed, so I don't need the big bulky zip-up case that comes with the AP. I wanted a small case that I can put the AP unit itself in and either keep it in the glove box or carry with me and not worry about scratching it up, etc. Last weekend I went to Best Buy and looked at everything they had. This case is perfect and comes in several colors: http://www.amazon.com/Oak-Street-Hard-Case-Blk/dp/B00A6JLRMA. It's more money than I wanted to spend, but the AP is worth protecting

It's not actually a full hard plastic case. It is squishy, but has a hard insert in the front face of the case to prevent impact damage to the face of the AP.

 

[McRib 1s Back]

I have my Cobb AccessPort V3 mount and wiring permanently installed, so I don't need the big bulky zip-up case that comes with the AP. I wanted a small case that I can put the AP unit itself in and either keep it in the glove box or carry with me and not worry about scratching it up, etc. Last weekend I went to Best Buy and looked at everything they had. This case is perfect and comes in several colors: http://www.amazon.com/Oak-Street-Hard-Case-Blk/dp/B00A6JLRMA. It's more money than I wanted to spend, but the AP is worth protecting

It's not actually a full hard plastic case. It is squishy, but has a hard insert in the front face of the case to prevent impact damage to the face of the AP.

Share some photos of your setup, please.

I don't take my AP down, so I'm not worried about scratching it. I look at it as a data logger and use it every single drive!