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A few people have posted issues about a knocking noise in the dash upon startup. Has anyone tried fixing this? I'm technically still under warranty, but I'm very protective over my FiST and don't want to take it to the dealer here in Phoenix. My guess is that it is the blend motor making the knocking noise, but I could be wrong. It stops about 8 seconds after start-up. The noise seems to be located in the dash near the ignition button/air vent.
 

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It not the motor but the gears in the actuator assembly. I just replaced the HAVC/Heater Blend Door Actuator in my FiST. The part # is YH-1935 AV1Z19E616. Bought it of ebay new Motorcraft in sealed bag for $47 dollars. You can repair it yourself if you don't mind working in the drivers side footwell upside down. Knee airbag needs to come out to get access. And the work area is small. Took me about 4 hours.
 
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My 2014 FiST started doing this yesterday at 36k miles. Thanks for the confirmation that this can be done without removing the dash. Did it take 4 hours because of trying to figure out how to take things apart or is it that tedious of a process?
 

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The Motorcraft part suggested, YH-1935 (AV1Z-19E616-A), works fine but it's not an exact replacement as it feels like it sits higher than it should when screwed down.

You will need to unbolt the driver's seat and either remove it or just slide it to the back seat area as you'll be on your back removing the knee-airbag.

If I were to do this again it would take less than an hour but I definitely wanted to be cautious removing the knee-airbag. You'll want to make sure you disconnect it properly and not break any tabs removing it. Once you remove the knee-airbag it's up and to the right of the throttle pedal. Do yourself a favor by going to Harbor Freight and purchasing a $3 right-angle ratcheting driver as shown in the photos.

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The Motorcraft part suggested, YH-1935 (AV1Z-19E616-A), works fine but it's not an exact replacement as it feels like it sits higher than it should when screwed down.

You will need to unbolt the driver's seat and either remove it or just slide it to the back seat area as you'll be on your back removing the knee-airbag.

If I were to do this again it would take less than an hour but I definitely wanted to be cautious removing the knee-airbag. You'll want to make sure you disconnect it properly and not break any tabs removing it. Once you remove the knee-airbag it's up and to the right of the throttle pedal. Do yourself a favor by going to Harbor Freight and purchasing a $3 right-angle ratcheting driver as shown in the photos.

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What are the engineering numbers on your old one? I can't quite make it out in the photo you posted.
 
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I did mine last week @ 40k miles.

The left hand bolt on the airbag is a total jerk. Otherwise, easy-peasy. Took about 2.5 hours, 1.5 of which was that bolt.
 

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Took me a while but got into Ford of Escondido on Saturday. They put in a faulty part so now I don't have the clicking but my air can only go through the dash. Going to setup another appointment so they can complete the fix.

Side note. Can someone confirm that our driver side auto window will roll up with a full pull of the button? Or does it just have the automatic down? I'm scratching my head over this because I swore I could go up and down.
 

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Mine just started doing it. 2014, 3 1/2 years after delivery, 22K miles.

From what I have read, they seem to only last that long. It only lasts about 10 seconds, so at this point I am not keen on spending the money to fix something that will likely break again because of piss-poor design. I just tell the wife it's a midget inside the dash applauding.
 

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I have a 2014 at 40k and just replaced one today for the second time, first time I had the dealer do it cause it happened at 20k. It's a terribly crappy part and there is no better solution. On the bright side it's the only thing I hate about the car and a very easy fix.
 

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I got the left one replaced last October by the dealership under warranty. Chapman Ford in Scottsdale did a great job.

Yesterday, the right side started knocking upon startup. I'm at 50k, so this one is on me to repair.
My right side started knocking a few days ago.... I setup an appointment for the 17th. Hopefully when they fix this one all of the rattles they created when they replaced the first one will go away.
 

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What are the engineering numbers on your old one? I can't quite make it out in the photo you posted.
Steve, I'm not the OP, but I just went to the dealership to pick up the replacement part, which is shown in the catalog and product packaging as AV1Z-19E616-K. But the Part Number stamped on the cover of the part is AV11-19E616-EA, with mfg date of 5/2016. The part is inside a zip loc bag inside the official Motorcraft bag. I decided not to buy this part from the dealer until I know more about what is supposed to be in the bag. What's worrysome is that the P/N stamped on the part is the same as the picture that RavynX posted in October, except that his Motorcraft bag is labeled AV1Z-19E616-A, 11 revisions earlier than -K. Does the Tasca stocked part like this(inner zip loc with old part being sold as new part)?
 

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Steve, I'm not the OP, but I just went to the dealership to pick up the replacement part, which is shown in the catalog and product packaging as AV1Z-19E616-K. But the Part Number stamped on the cover of the part is AV11-19E616-EA, with mfg date of 5/2016. The part is inside a zip loc bag inside the official Motorcraft bag. I decided not to buy this part from the dealer until I know more about what is supposed to be in the bag. What's worrysome is that the P/N stamped on the part is the same as the picture that RavynX posted in October, except that his Motorcraft bag is labeled AV1Z-19E616-A, 11 revisions earlier than -K. Does the Tasca stocked part like this(inner zip loc with old part being sold as new part)?
The number on the part itself is an engineering number, it will never match the packaging. There have not been eleven revisions, at least there have not been eleven part number changes. The AV1Z-19E616-K is the latest part and the engineering number on it should be AV11-19E616-EA.

-Steve
 

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I got the left bolt out with a swivel extension and a lot of patience. It's the right bolt if you're in the seat facing the front of the car, but left bolt when you're upside down trying to actually get it out.

I drilled out part of the replacement part so that it would fit in the bottom left guide. That was the only way I could get the part to sit in there without me holding it. If you look in the above screenshots (the side by side with the gear facing you,) I drilled out the left part of the t shape in the bottom left to match the stock one.

Also, if you have long arms, consider removing the seat. I did not, but I am sore as hell after installation.

One final note, I had to spin the gears that this part plugs into quite a bit to get it to line up with the replacement part. Pay attention to where the guide is and line it up before sticking the new part in there. I'm actually sort of surprised that I didn't notice any airflow issues with the broken part after seeing how off it was.
 
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