SCCA Autocross setup thread

94870 Views 647 Replies 36 Participants Last post by Des, Aug 18, 2014

AlanBDahl

Discussion Starter · Oct 21, 2013

I thought I'd start a thread specifically to discuss autocross setup for the Fiesta ST for next years Street class (probably G Street). This way we can share our learnings on wheels, tires, shocks, sway bars and alignment.

Save

1 - 6 of 648 Posts

ST_Rocky

· #7 · Oct 24, 2013

Any of you get the latest Sports Car SCCA magazine? Great writeup on the Solo Nationals.

From what I am reading into the GS runs:

The Celica (FWD) dominated over the Focus ST the first day on the *TIGHT* course.

The Focus ST's dominated with their horsepower the second day on the longer course. Just sadly, only something like .004 seconds too slow to make up for the prior day's runs of the Celica.

What this leads me to think, is that with its lighter weight, slimmer width, the more nimble handling, and the nearly close hp per pound of the FiST compared to the FoST - perhaps the Fiesta ST (with a properly good driver) could have won both days at the nationals. Meaning it should do better than the FoST on the tight course due to its handling, and beat the Celica cause it has near FoST hp. Then be nearly equal with the FoST the next day on the longer course. Hope we can see this happen next year!

Save

Reactions: 1

ST_Rocky

· #28 · Nov 3, 2013

I will be having an alignment done, maybe on Monday. Any tips on what to set the castor and toe to? I will of course, have them loosen up the front, and then push/pull for every little bit of negative camber I can get, and hopefully some castor added. But am wondering what I should set the toe to? Not sure if any adjustment can be made on the rear? But the front might prove a challenge. As I see it, if correct, the front toe might dynamically change under acceleration, due to force and traction. So might have to compensate for that in the static settings.

So what would you guys suggest?

Save

ST_Rocky

· #29 · Nov 4, 2013

Still need any suggestions on alignment specs guys, please?

And on another thought.......

Am watching the review of the 2013 Global Rallycross series on ESPNH2 channel. Man that must be FUN! Can't wait to get my car back from being repaired after the vandalism.

So I was thinking, as I love oversteer, and hate understeer. How would the FiST handle in AutoX, if I were to use the sticky Direza ZII on the front wheels, and put crap tires on the rear? Would it rotate just right? Or be too squirrelly? I am not a great drifter like Taka Aono in his old AE86 Corrolla, but I had spent years driving in snow & ice growing up in the Chicagoland area, and had raced a number of years up at Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, on the frozen lake with various RWD cars. So driving sideways is something that comes naturally to me. Even blew people's minds, when it was raining hard during a Cal Club SCCA event one time. I had my STU prepared Sube STi shod with Advan Neova tires at the time, and got the car drifting perfectly through the entire course. That was a hoot of a day! Had the biggest grin ever, LOL.

See less See more

Save

ST_Rocky

· #31 · Nov 4, 2013

AlanBDahl said:
Generally you don't want to mix tires in autocross besides perhaps running different sizes front and rear. In the unlikely case that the FiST won't rotate you'd start with adjusting tire pressures and if that doesn't work you'd want to stiffen the rear shocks.

Haven't Hearn the name Taka Aono in a long time! I ran FSP against him in 2003 when I co-drove a TR-6. He was almost untouchable although I got within 0.1 of him at the Fontana NT that year. I really miss running against him, he was a great competitor and a great guy.

We may have met that day? My nickname is Rocky. I've been around AutoX and SCCA for many years. And so yes, I'd know about the pressures, shock settings, and swaybars. Just was thinking a bit out loud, and outside the proverbial "box" with that question. And regarding tire pressures, there are so many with their various suggestions, that it makes your head spin, haha.

I would most definitely have talked to you, or the owner of the TR6, cause I started racing back in 1974 with a 68 MKIII Triumph Spitfire, then a 72, a 74 1500, then a 73 GT6. Lee Matas back in Chicago had the cleanest, and fastest TR6 (with OD) for many years, and would have mentioned that.

As that was 2003, then I would have been in STX driving my 2002 WRX (blue), I believe #476, and had a large round AAA (Automobile Club of Southern California) magnetic sign on the side (used to work at ACSC for 18 years). At a typical Cal Club event, I'd have placed in either 1st, 2nd, or 3rd, as I was in a 3 way battle between an E30 //M3, a Prelude, and my WRX. But that being a national tour, probably lower down, but still in the top 10.

Both Taka, and Hiro Sumida were great guys, and amazing drivers. They went on to start the D1 drifting series there in SoCal, and pretty much paved the way for that predominately Japanese sport to come to America. I miss them too.

See less See more

Save

ST_Rocky

· #34 · Nov 4, 2013

Cligedy said:
The trick to going faster is almost never to make half of the car work worse. Improve the deficiency instead of bringing the rest of the car down.

I'm with you though, I've never owned a wrong wheel drive car before, so I will be trying to figure out how to get this to rotate. When I drove the FiST at the Ecoboost event, I was shocked at how well this car turns without plowing, even when driven hard.

Was just a thought, while watching the 2013 Global Rallycross series on my DVR. Going sideways is pure FUN! Though I prefer pavement. And yes, I know, sideways = slow. It is typically the run that looks the most boring, that is the faster times.

Anyway, still waiting on what type of alignment specs I should give the tech. They might be doing it shortly today, so I can finally get my car back after a week in the bodyshop thanks to an idiot doing a 30 second smash & grab via the driver's door window!

Save

ST_Rocky

· #36 · Nov 5, 2013

limbo said:
As much front caster and camber as possible. I'm not sure id mess with the toe but maybe start with some small toe out in the rear to start?

The camber and castor is a no brainer. I am concerned with what to set the toe to in the front. Reason being, if set to lets say zero toe static, under heavy acceleration it could move dynamically due to the stress placed on any bushings in the suspension. Thus would like to know what might be a better static setting to offset those changes. Thanks

Save

1 - 6 of 648 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month