This thread interests me. I have an STR S2000 and will probably also be running the FiST in GS next year.
Anyone have any idea on if we can get any camber adjustment stock?
Anyone have any idea on if we can get any camber adjustment stock?
SCCA Autocross setup thread
I thought I'd start a thread specifically to discuss autocross setup for the Fiesta ST for next years Street class (probably G Street). This way we can share our learnings on wheels, tires, shocks, sway bars and alignment.
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Sorry, the new STREET rules state no camber adjustment bolts, plates, etc....This thread interests me. I have an STR S2000 and will probably also be running the FiST in GS next year.
Anyone have any idea on if we can get any camber adjustment stock?
I was planning on using the available eccentric strut bolts. They made a buddy's Genesis really competitive.
Right, I'm aware of the rules I was just wondering if you all know if the camber is adjustable stock? It looks like the Focus ST's is not and I know most Mac Strut suspensions aren't, guess I was hopeful.
Our local GS class is pretty soft but I was able to pull off 2nd in the FiST bone stock. Pretty excited to see what it will do with decent tires but probably going to wear the stock one's out first.
Our local GS class is pretty soft but I was able to pull off 2nd in the FiST bone stock. Pretty excited to see what it will do with decent tires but probably going to wear the stock one's out first.
the front camber is adjustable via loosen the nuts and push on the struts to take advantage of inherent manufacturing tolerances. loosen the three nuts on top of the struts and push the strut top all the way inboard and back to get the most positive caster. loosen the two nuts on the bottom of the struts and push the strut above the knuckle to get the most negative camber.
I know this is not a setup question, but I wonder if anyone has tried to get 4 wheels/tires into the hatch (with the seats flipped down) so you could swap wheels at the track?
thanks
thanks
I've gotten four Solstice 295/30-18 tires in the hatch without a problem, indeed I can get three standing up in the trunk area. With the narrower Fiesta tires you should have no problems at all. However with street tires being the rule next year there might not be a need to do so unless you're driving cross-country to an event or something.I know this is not a setup question, but I wonder if anyone has tried to get 4 wheels/tires into the hatch (with the seats flipped down) so you could swap wheels at the track?
thanks
I was able to fit 4 16x7 wheels with 205/45-16 tires on the rear seats plus 4 unmounted 195/45-16 tires in the hatch.I know this is not a setup question, but I wonder if anyone has tried to get 4 wheels/tires into the hatch (with the seats flipped down) so you could swap wheels at the track?
thanks
I will be having an alignment done, maybe on Monday. Any tips on what to set the castor and toe to? I will of course, have them loosen up the front, and then push/pull for every little bit of negative camber I can get, and hopefully some castor added. But am wondering what I should set the toe to? Not sure if any adjustment can be made on the rear? But the front might prove a challenge. As I see it, if correct, the front toe might dynamically change under acceleration, due to force and traction. So might have to compensate for that in the static settings.
So what would you guys suggest?
So what would you guys suggest?
Still need any suggestions on alignment specs guys, please?
And on another thought.......
Am watching the review of the 2013 Global Rallycross series on ESPNH2 channel. Man that must be FUN! Can't wait to get my car back from being repaired after the vandalism.
So I was thinking, as I love oversteer, and hate understeer. How would the FiST handle in AutoX, if I were to use the sticky Direza ZII on the front wheels, and put crap tires on the rear? Would it rotate just right? Or be too squirrelly? I am not a great drifter like Taka Aono in his old AE86 Corrolla, but I had spent years driving in snow & ice growing up in the Chicagoland area, and had raced a number of years up at Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, on the frozen lake with various RWD cars. So driving sideways is something that comes naturally to me. Even blew people's minds, when it was raining hard during a Cal Club SCCA event one time. I had my STU prepared Sube STi shod with Advan Neova tires at the time, and got the car drifting perfectly through the entire course. That was a hoot of a day! Had the biggest grin ever, LOL.
And on another thought.......
Am watching the review of the 2013 Global Rallycross series on ESPNH2 channel. Man that must be FUN! Can't wait to get my car back from being repaired after the vandalism.
So I was thinking, as I love oversteer, and hate understeer. How would the FiST handle in AutoX, if I were to use the sticky Direza ZII on the front wheels, and put crap tires on the rear? Would it rotate just right? Or be too squirrelly? I am not a great drifter like Taka Aono in his old AE86 Corrolla, but I had spent years driving in snow & ice growing up in the Chicagoland area, and had raced a number of years up at Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, on the frozen lake with various RWD cars. So driving sideways is something that comes naturally to me. Even blew people's minds, when it was raining hard during a Cal Club SCCA event one time. I had my STU prepared Sube STi shod with Advan Neova tires at the time, and got the car drifting perfectly through the entire course. That was a hoot of a day! Had the biggest grin ever, LOL.
Generally you don't want to mix tires in autocross besides perhaps running different sizes front and rear. In the unlikely case that the FiST won't rotate you'd start with adjusting tire pressures and if that doesn't work you'd want to stiffen the rear shocks.
Haven't Hearn the name Taka Aono in a long time! I ran FSP against him in 2003 when I co-drove a TR-6. He was almost untouchable although I got within 0.1 of him at the Fontana NT that year. I really miss running against him, he was a great competitor and a great guy.
Haven't Hearn the name Taka Aono in a long time! I ran FSP against him in 2003 when I co-drove a TR-6. He was almost untouchable although I got within 0.1 of him at the Fontana NT that year. I really miss running against him, he was a great competitor and a great guy.
We may have met that day? My nickname is Rocky. I've been around AutoX and SCCA for many years. And so yes, I'd know about the pressures, shock settings, and swaybars. Just was thinking a bit out loud, and outside the proverbial "box" with that question. And regarding tire pressures, there are so many with their various suggestions, that it makes your head spin, haha.Generally you don't want to mix tires in autocross besides perhaps running different sizes front and rear. In the unlikely case that the FiST won't rotate you'd start with adjusting tire pressures and if that doesn't work you'd want to stiffen the rear shocks.
Haven't Hearn the name Taka Aono in a long time! I ran FSP against him in 2003 when I co-drove a TR-6. He was almost untouchable although I got within 0.1 of him at the Fontana NT that year. I really miss running against him, he was a great competitor and a great guy.
I would most definitely have talked to you, or the owner of the TR6, cause I started racing back in 1974 with a 68 MKIII Triumph Spitfire, then a 72, a 74 1500, then a 73 GT6. Lee Matas back in Chicago had the cleanest, and fastest TR6 (with OD) for many years, and would have mentioned that.
As that was 2003, then I would have been in STX driving my 2002 WRX (blue), I believe #476, and had a large round AAA (Automobile Club of Southern California) magnetic sign on the side (used to work at ACSC for 18 years). At a typical Cal Club event, I'd have placed in either 1st, 2nd, or 3rd, as I was in a 3 way battle between an E30 //M3, a Prelude, and my WRX. But that being a national tour, probably lower down, but still in the top 10.
Both Taka, and Hiro Sumida were great guys, and amazing drivers. They went on to start the D1 drifting series there in SoCal, and pretty much paved the way for that predominately Japanese sport to come to America. I miss them too.
My name is Alan. It's been a while since I regularly travelled to SoCal (I'm from WA) but I had a great run from 2004 - 2006 finishing second in the challenge at the SB Pro in my Audi 90, winning it all in the same car at the Fontana Pro in 2005 and finishing second again in 2006, this time in a borrowed ES Miata. Since that time I've ran a yellow Solstice GXP but haven't traveled much since 2008 (though I did finish 3rd in BS at the 2009 Nationals(). Since them I've been a fair-weather autocrosser and the FiST is my choice to get back into the sport full-time.
The trick to going faster is almost never to make half of the car work worse. Improve the deficiency instead of bringing the rest of the car down.Still need any suggestions on alignment specs guys, please?
And on another thought.......
Am watching the review of the 2013 Global Rallycross series on ESPNH2 channel. Man that must be FUN! Can't wait to get my car back from being repaired after the vandalism.
So I was thinking, as I love oversteer, and hate understeer. How would the FiST handle in AutoX, if I were to use the sticky Direza ZII on the front wheels, and put crap tires on the rear? Would it rotate just right? Or be too squirrelly? I am not a great drifter like Taka Aono in his old AE86 Corrolla, but I had spent years driving in snow & ice growing up in the Chicagoland area, and had raced a number of years up at Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, on the frozen lake with various RWD cars. So driving sideways is something that comes naturally to me. Even blew people's minds, when it was raining hard during a Cal Club SCCA event one time. I had my STU prepared Sube STi shod with Advan Neova tires at the time, and got the car drifting perfectly through the entire course. That was a hoot of a day! Had the biggest grin ever, LOL.
I'm with you though, I've never owned a wrong wheel drive car before, so I will be trying to figure out how to get this to rotate. When I drove the FiST at the Ecoboost event, I was shocked at how well this car turns without plowing, even when driven hard.
Was just a thought, while watching the 2013 Global Rallycross series on my DVR. Going sideways is pure FUN! Though I prefer pavement. And yes, I know, sideways = slow. It is typically the run that looks the most boring, that is the faster times.The trick to going faster is almost never to make half of the car work worse. Improve the deficiency instead of bringing the rest of the car down.
I'm with you though, I've never owned a wrong wheel drive car before, so I will be trying to figure out how to get this to rotate. When I drove the FiST at the Ecoboost event, I was shocked at how well this car turns without plowing, even when driven hard.
Anyway, still waiting on what type of alignment specs I should give the tech. They might be doing it shortly today, so I can finally get my car back after a week in the bodyshop thanks to an idiot doing a 30 second smash & grab via the driver's door window!
As much front caster and camber as possible. I'm not sure id mess with the toe but maybe start with some small toe out in the rear to start?
The camber and castor is a no brainer. I am concerned with what to set the toe to in the front. Reason being, if set to lets say zero toe static, under heavy acceleration it could move dynamically due to the stress placed on any bushings in the suspension. Thus would like to know what might be a better static setting to offset those changes. ThanksAs much front caster and camber as possible. I'm not sure id mess with the toe but maybe start with some small toe out in the rear to start?
I don't think it's going to change enough to matter. I personally wouldn't waste time tuning toe, just my .02
??? Whut?I don't think it's going to change enough to matter. I personally wouldn't waste time tuning toe, just my .02
If you're going to drive it aggressively or autocross/rallycross toe is the most important change you can make.
It's unlikely you can alter the castor at all. With camber, like they've said here before, loosen everything and push real hard. Still won't get much more negative camber. But they do have eccentric camber bolts for the struts that will add more camber.
With a FWD for daily driving set toe to 0.0 or very very slightly toe-out.
For autocross and rally cross set the tow close to the maximum in-green-range toe-out.
There is no adjustment you can make to the rear settings...unless you have a really big hammer....
I see your point and yes toe out in the front will be best for cornering / rotation. For most, however, I would think the tire wear and loss of straight line stability are not going to be worth the cornering gain.
Wish those camber bolts were allowed in gs.
Wish those camber bolts were allowed in gs.
Just wanted to see if you guys in warmer climates have been able to work on the set up some bit. Just moved to a FiST from a Mini Cooper and will be working on setting it up this spring...for the initial test and tunes I will probably just play with tire pressure. Then do alignment...initial thoughts are:
First make sure numbers are matched or as close to it with me in the car.
Front -
Of course I will see how it is stock. Would like to know if there are any tricks to maximizing camber - like on the mini when you pull the plastic pin or adding crash bolts...keeps it stock legal but adds that little bit
Also thoughts on sway bar? Mini was go bigger in the back.
Wheels and tires...my thought was to move to a 16 inch wheel - especially with the new rules for Street Tire where you can use a wheel an inch shorter with the width of the size above, probably go with the Star Specs 225 50 16 if they will fit
I figure that will be it for this year and then see about konis or something for next year
First make sure numbers are matched or as close to it with me in the car.
Front -
Maximize - Camber
Maximize Caster
Slight Toe out
RearMaximize Caster
Slight Toe out
Minimize - Camber
0 toe
0 toe
Of course I will see how it is stock. Would like to know if there are any tricks to maximizing camber - like on the mini when you pull the plastic pin or adding crash bolts...keeps it stock legal but adds that little bit
Also thoughts on sway bar? Mini was go bigger in the back.
Wheels and tires...my thought was to move to a 16 inch wheel - especially with the new rules for Street Tire where you can use a wheel an inch shorter with the width of the size above, probably go with the Star Specs 225 50 16 if they will fit
I figure that will be it for this year and then see about konis or something for next year
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