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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been a while since I've run on the track, so I decided to update my gear. I bought my stuff on Amazon (I'm a big fan!).

I'm using a SImpson Bandit (black) helmet:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JVOI9Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Simpson Sportsman Grip gloves:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R
4UUI4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Racequip shoes:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QMBO4Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

K1 Race Gear Suit in B&W:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041QSG8C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It was tempting to spend a lot more money, but I decided to go with a good helmet and gloves, and saved a bit of money on the shoes and suit. The savings on the suit was by going with something cheaper than Nomex -- "Proban" in this case. It's still fire retardant, and meets SFI 3.2A/1 ratings.

It's a black and white color theme -- I didn't want to show up like a *total* Stig wannabe. :)

So, what do the rest of you use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
...I'll also bring a pretty decent tool box with my torque wrench. This one is fantastic, has great reviews, and is often 50%+ off with free Prime shipping:

Mountain 16250 1/2-inch Drive Torque Wrench - 25-250 ft/lbs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFL89I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I paid $65.46 for it. It's the best one I've ever used. If you don't have one, you need one. :)

Since I will drive there on my track tires, I don't have to carry an extra set of wheels/tires. It's only a 2 hour drive from my house in Long Beach (110 miles).

This 3 ton jack is what I use for all of my vehicles. It is a dual-piston setup, and a joy to use.

Powerzone 380044 3 Ton Aluminum and Steel Garage Jack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UM7B98/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Valterra A10-0908 Red Wheel Chock
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006MRQXG/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a nice set of jack stands and a bottle jack when needed.

You want to bring some cold drinks and food, though this event provides lunch for the driver. Also, it's always cold in the morning and night! For this event, it will probably be very cold the entire day. It's far enough north of LA to get actual winter conditions. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can you recommend me a common tool box kit to keep in my trunk?

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Oh, I actually recommend against that. I only carry tools when I need them. Too much weight and rattling around! :)

That aside, I have a 200(ish) piece Crescent brand self-contained tool kit that I take to the track (or in my Jeep when offroad).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I already carry a small low quality tool kit I bought from pepboys that I keep in the trunk organizer. Just was curious to what you carried.

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That's totally fair -- and appropriate in a daily driven car. I don't even carry the full(ish)-sized spare. Instead, I carry a patch kit and an extra-large fix-a-flat style can (one made for a large offroad tire does the trick very nicely). I've had occasion to test this, and it works for most things you'll encounter in the city.

Anyhow, I just meant that this tool kit, that I recommend having overall, is too big to clunk around in your hatch. Even when I carry it in my Jeep, I strap it down. So, it's this kit and a bag with some specialty tools (that are different for my Jeep). It's pretty flat, but long and wide (and pretty heavy). It packs nicely, so it's not crazy to consider it. I was just projecting -- I know that when I carry a kit like that, I keep adding "one more thing" and the next thing I know, I have a lot of extra stuff that I don't need short of the zombies coming to town (plus, that's what my Jeep is for!). :)

Here's a photo (oh, and it looks like it's only 170 pieces):

Set tool Tool Metalworking Cutting tool Metalworking hand tool


Costco often carries it much cheaper than the retail (which is about $130). I have two of these. One pretty much lives in the Jeep, ready-to-go. It's very decent quality for the money.

Edit: Fixed the broken HTML on the quote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Harbor freight has a 1/2" torque wrench with ratchet head that you can get on sale for $20 and it has a blow molded case so it won't get bashed.

I just saw it in an email ad for 9.99 and a 1/2" breaker bar for 8.99 (hurry, offer expires tomorrow).

In my opinion the torque wrench is good enough for tightening lug nuts and the breaker bar is good enough for loosening them and they are cheap.
Wow, that really is cheap. I have only one experience with a HF breaker bar -- it literally broke while loosening a lug from around 85 ft/lbs. I'm not a fan, but you could buy a few and still be ahead! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You are exactly correct, 100 ft-lbs (135Nm).

I do also buy HFT but for torque and breaker bar, I will keep my Snap-On thank you.
But then I already have them and when I bought them, they were a tax wright off.

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Dave
This reminds me -- all four of my wheels were uniformly torqued to a value considerably lower than 100 ft-lbs! A lot less. I'm curious if others noted rage when changing or rotating wheels?

The torque wrench I linked is fantastic and a good deal. You know quality when you hold it in your hand.

I believe HF tools are getting better, but I regard them as disposable. I don't know the actual torque value, but I can tell you that the simple task of removing a lug from a compact car wheel bent it!

I'm into good tools, and I agree that almost any label can create them. I don't want this thread to be become a debate about that. Almost all tools are made in China (breaks my heart). If HF tools work for you, rock on! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Harbor freight tools are still pushing the limits of how low quality I'm willing to pay for. I tend to stick with Craftsman, but Northern Tool stores seem to bridge the gap between Harbor freight and Craftsman. I've seen decent tools for modest $.
There's a Harbor Freight that's five minutes away from my house, and it is convenient for the variety of other types of tools and accessories that really are disposable! For instance, they have great deals of latex gloves that I use for changing the oil on my vehicles and various clean up (and to dispense diesel!).

Making this be slightly back on-topic, I also buy the variety of metal and plastic brushes for clean-up. The brass brushes are great for cleaning any kind of surface rust on rough parts, and the nylon/plastic ones are good for the wheels, etc.

One very random thing that I bought there, and don't see anywhere else (in retail) is a trapping cage! They make and regularly stock three sizes. My backyard used to be a transit station for the neighbor cats, possums , and raccoons! I don't have that problem anymore. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
In the past, I would bring blue 3M painters' tape. It's ugly but effective.

This time, I don't think I'll do that! Some strategically located vinyl is in order.

Dave, picking up our conversation from C&C, what do you consider the most critical areas for an application like this? I'm thinking the front edge of the hood and maybe the lights. Our housing is plastic, but I recall that tape was a requirement in the past (front/rear?). Is the regular clear vinyl strong enough/suitable for our headlights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
A clear bra is best however you can get some clear tape for a one time use.
Remember that Willow is relentless for eating paint as well.

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Dave

Yes, I just may go the clear bra route. I'm betting templates are readily available. I've used both Xpel and 3M in the past.

I'd be happy if I could get the hood and lights for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My K1 suit just came in earlier today. It fits great, and I can't imagine what the medium would be like! This "large" is likely "Euro large" -- I'm pretty much a standard American Extra-Medium! :)

I'm 5'10" and 175 pounds with a 32" waist, 32" inseam, and 42" chest. This thing is practically tailor fit and no way I'd go with the smaller size. Hope that helps anyone considering this suit.

It really is quite nice for the money. Yes, the Sparco Nomex is nicer, but it's only $600 more! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ok,
What are you doing about a low mounted tow hook?

Sent with my retro keyboard and mouse.

Dave
I drove my VW today, but I think -- at least, I hope, we can use the factory hard points. I need to look behind the little square tow point covers. With luck we just need to buy a compatible hook/eye. My Audi included them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Unless I'm imagining this, there's a cutout in the bumpers. I just can't check since my car is home today.
While my car is home, I just remembered that I have photos of the front and rear bumpers handy.

I guess I was thinking about one of my other cars -- there are no cutouts!

I'm not going to worry too much about this for SoW, but it's something we need to sort out longer term.

For the rear, we can use the torsion beam in a pinch! Let's just plan on not crashing or going into the gravel! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Oh yeah, here's another handy item I intend to bring to my upcoming track day:

"PSX2 Battery Jumper / Air Compressor"
http://www.amazon.com/PowerStation-Hi-Current-Jumpstarter-Hi-Volume-Compressor/dp/B005CL1OPC

This is a slightly newer version than mine. I believe there is an even newer PSX3, but that could just be the unique CostCo label (they often do that). It has a fancy fake carbon-fiber wrapper on it now, too (mine is just red/black). :)

I've had it a few years and keep it plugged in. It seems to manage the trickle charging/thermal boundaries well, and always performs well.
I actually bought this for offroad duty as a spare battery for my Jeep (though I've only ever used it to jump other folks!).

Costco sells this currently, and it's a lot less money. I just had the Amazon link handy.

It's higher output than the smaller, cheaper compressors. It's a handy way to top off or re-inflate from the track. It's only good on "normal sized tires". I rarely use this on my Jeep since my 35s would take all day to fill! I use my CO2 tank or front-mount Warn compressor instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I do not think you really need to go all out buying track gear for your first track day. Most track days through SCCA / NASA / BMWCCA or the like will ask that you have a helmet with a SA2005 helmet at a minimum (you can get away with a m2005 for autocross usually) and long sleeves and pants and shoes that enable you to be very mobile. Gloves are nice but not mandatory. If you show up in a suit for an introductory track day, you are going to be an odd one out.
This isn't my first track day, but I appreciate what you are saying.

This gear is about safety for me. If it can help me avoid serious injury, or worse, a fiery end, it's worth it. Ordinary road cars are often more susceptible, not less, than track cars for this kind of thing (regarding fuel containment in a crash).

I do agree that you can get away with less. When I first started in the 90s, they let us use our motorcycle helmets. I think that's pretty universally a no-no, now. Back when I ran track days with more regularity, I found that regular stuff really was lacking -- especially the shoes. You can approximate some nice flat bottom shoes, but they make application specific shoes, so why not? The same is true for gloves.

With luck, I'll be doing track days with regularity again. Maybe some people here will join me too! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I have never had much luck with the combo air compressors jumper pac never enough juice to help or i let others use my air and they overheat the compressor and it looses pumping power.. So i just got a Honda portable genny and a small plug in air compressor i haul around in the car trailer. If i go to a event in the car alone i take the cheapo DC plug in unit or mooch off friends or the track ;)
Nice! I'm trying to economize space. I agree that most combo units suck -- this one really doesn't! It, um, blows, well...
 
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