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I'm still jealous...:p

Stupid economic downturn...


Sent from my iPhone accidentally, due to the gate being left ajar
 

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Just watched it the other day. I have the exact same view on upgrading FMIC. So many people have told me "ditch the stock unit, it's such a bottleneck and pos, get an upgraded one blah-blah". Whether I have DHM monster racing FMIC or stock unit when I sit in traffic at 100+ ambient both of them will raise CAT like crazy lol. And no hate, just love, but I'll take KB over PB any day:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The key of the intercooler is where you live and what you do with the car. Most people see the dyno results where the car is sitting still with a fan in front of it and go "wow, that intercooler gets hot" which is true. I don't drive my car on a dyno, I drive it on the street, in a cooler climate, with only 3 months in which the temps are reasonably warm. Autocrossing was where I really expected to see the need for the intercooler, but with spraying the intercooler down with ice water between runs with a spray bottle, max temp was around 10 degrees above ambient. Most of that was from the idle time getting to the starting line. If I lived in a warmer part of the country, drove the car hard, did canyon runs, autocrossed it on a regular biases, open tracked the car, and was looking for further modifications, then the intercooler is 100% needed. The other thing to remember is that many modifications come from faulty information proliferated online and accepted as fact. The RMM is a perfect example. Everyone thinks the engine hits the firewall with the stock RMM and they need to upgrade it right away. The truth is that the Focus ST had an issue with the engine bumping the AC lines on the firewall on early production units. The Fiesta motor is very far away from the firewall and there is no way for the RMM bushings to deflect the inches it would take to cause an impact. Aftermarket companies love this since it sells product based on poor data. The best thing to do is research the products yourself, collect data that either supports or doesn't support the modification, and then go from there.

As for the color, there is a 2016 ST in town that is Kona Blue, and it does look really good. I still love my Performance Blue, but no hate at all to Kona.
 

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I live in SF Bay Area, CA commuting to work to Antioch, gets pretty hot during summer (95-100 degrees is pretty common throughout the whole summer) which forces me to drive like a granny (don't wanna make any boost with 100 degrees ambient). But even then it's a casual cruising down the highway. But intake manifold temperature remains no more than 2-6 degrees above ambient during the commute at 75-80 mph so I know FMIC is doing its job well. Once I hit a racetrack I'll be curious to see any difference but gotta get an AP first:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The AP is key to monitoring the charge temps. That will provide you with the data to make a determination if you need an intercooler or not. Given your location, I am guessing yes. I used to visit a customer in Hayward and was always happy to go during winter since it is always nice out there! This summer we had the most amount of 90'F days in a long time, might be a record, and it was only around 15 or so days. Living along Lake Michigan, our temps are always cooler than a few miles inland. Late June through mid September is about the only time we have consistent temps above 70'F. Mornings can be as low as mid-50's during the summer, so I basically have the drive home in the summer that is warm enough to really watch in the charge temps. Open track use is going to be very important to monitor the temps. When I tracked a stock 2014 ST, we never had issues with the stock intercooler, and we ran the car pretty hard. Even took it autocrossing with about 35 runs on the car back to back to back with 7 different drivers. The car only sat still long enough to swap drivers. Still no issues with the intercooler. If we had done that in Florida, SoCal, Arizona, or somewhere like that, I bet we would have had issues right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think it depends on your location and how your are using the car. A warm climate and you are going to be running autocross and open track events, then yes, I would upgrade the intercooler with everything else being stock. You could look into an OBD monitor for your phone and look at charge temps to see how they climb. An upgraded intercooler will never hurt anything, assuming you are picking a well designed one that won't overcool the charge and cause condensation in the air charge or block the radiator. A properly engineered intercooler with a stock calibration will not hurt anything and should give some benefits. The question that comes up is if the expense of the intercooler is worth it for that application.
 

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The key of the intercooler is where you live and what you do with the car. Most people see the dyno results where the car is sitting still with a fan in front of it and go "wow, that intercooler gets hot" which is true. I don't drive my car on a dyno, I drive it on the street, in a cooler climate, with only 3 months in which the temps are reasonably warm. Autocrossing was where I really expected to see the need for the intercooler, but with spraying the intercooler down with ice water between runs with a spray bottle, max temp was around 10 degrees above ambient. Most of that was from the idle time getting to the starting line. If I lived in a warmer part of the country, drove the car hard, did canyon runs, autocrossed it on a regular biases, open tracked the car, and was looking for further modifications, then the intercooler is 100% needed. The other thing to remember is that many modifications come from faulty information proliferated online and accepted as fact. The RMM is a perfect example. Everyone thinks the engine hits the firewall with the stock RMM and they need to upgrade it right away. The truth is that the Focus ST had an issue with the engine bumping the AC lines on the firewall on early production units. The Fiesta motor is very far away from the firewall and there is no way for the RMM bushings to deflect the inches it would take to cause an impact. Aftermarket companies love this since it sells product based on poor data. The best thing to do is research the products yourself, collect data that either supports or doesn't support the modification, and then go from there.

As for the color, there is a 2016 ST in town that is Kona Blue, and it does look really good. I still love my Performance Blue, but no hate at all to Kona.
BRGT350,

I'm assuming you are not driving your FiST currently with an aftermarket RMM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
BRGT350,

I'm assuming you are not driving your FiST currently with an aftermarket RMM?
I have the Cobb RMM. One of the "must do" modifications for any of my FWD cars is the RMM, but for the real reason why they are an important upgrade and not for the pretend reason of the motor and firewall coming together. A stiffer RMM reduces the amount of engine movement under load due to torque, which means the transmission isn't moving around as much in between shifts, so your shifts are smoother and more precise. There is also less bushing wind-up with a stiffer bushing compound, so less wheel hop under acceleration. There is also less pitching with a stiffer RMM bushing since the engine and transmission aren't moving as much, and since they are heavy objects, their inertia is higher and can unbalance the car between shifts and accel/de-accel.
 

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I too have installed the Cobb RMM. I've definitely appreciated the improved shifting, pitching, and wheel hop. Not to mention, I have also enjoyed the improved engine sound, particularly in the cabin. People think that I have an exhaust. However, I am almost at my wits end with the increased vibration. I have mentioned this in other forums, but I've only been accused of not installing it correctly, when I know I have installed it correctly. So my question is, do you experience vibration, and if so when do you specifically notice it? No one has given me a specific answer. Mine is right at 1100 rpms, if I'm above it or below it it's gone. It's specifically noticeble when I'm engaging first gear or when I am dipping in that rpm range in any other gear. I feel like I constantly have to blep the throttle to avoid it or else it's vibration central. I've appreciated your thorough descriptions and feedback with your car, so that's why I'm asking you. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think mine is worse at a slightly lower RPM, but it is pretty bad with the AC on. It feels normal to me since all of my cars have had a stiffer RMM. On my SVT Focus, I had the idle raised to help the issue, but when the AC was on, the RPM's dipped down to where it vibrated again. As long as the bolts are torqued properly, there isn't much to get wrong on installing it. Might be worth giving the bolts a check with a torque wrench to make sure they are still to spec.
 
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